Video Transcript

The BBC logo appears on screen.

The narrator says SIX COOKS...
[laughter]
SIX COUNTRIES, SIX INCREDIBLE
JOURNEYS.

Monica Galetti raises her fist and says WOO!

Monica is in her forties, with short brown hair. She wears a lilac tank top, a pendant necklace and an army green cap.

Dave Myers sits as many children play with his hair.

He says AH!

Dave is in his fifties, with long wavy graying hair and a beard. He wears glasses and a floral shirt.

The narrator says STEPPING OUTSIDE
THEIR COMFORT ZONES.

A caption reads "Monica Galetti. France."

Monica says IT'S NOT FOR
THE FAINT HEARTED, FOR SURE.

The narrator says OUR COOKS WILL
TRAVEL FAR AND WIDE...

John Torode drives a car. He’s in his fifties, clean-shaven and with short straight gray hair. He wears a blue shirt.

He says ROUTE 7 ALL
THE WAY.

The narrator says TO FIND SOME OF
THE MOST EXCITING FOOD ON THE
PLANET.

The caption changes to "Tony Singh. India."

Tony is in his late forties, with brown hair in a red turban and a thick beard. He wears a floral shirt.

He says IF YOU'RE BACK
IN THE UK, YOU GOT TANDOORI
CHICKEN, NOTHING LIKE THIS.

The caption changes to "Dave Myers. Egypt."

Dave says IT'S BEAUTIFUL.
THIS IS THE BEST FOOD I'VE HAD
IN EGYPT.
IT'S PURE, IT'S GOT HERITAGE,
IT'S GOT LOVE IN IT, YOU KNOW.

The narrator says THEY'LL GO OFF
THE BEATEN TRACK.

Rick Stein is at the store, in the meat section. He’s in his sixties, balding and clean-shaven. He wears a lilac shirt.

Rick says CROCODILE,
CROCODILE SAUSAGES.

The narrator says MEETING
EXTRAORDINARY PEOPLE, EXPLORING
WAYS OF LIFE UNCHANGED FOR
CENTURIES.

The caption changes to "Rachel Khoo. Malaysia."

Rachel is in her twenties, with long straight brown hair in a braid.

She says NO ELECTRIC
BLENDERS IN THE JUNGLE.
HAVE TO DO EVERYTHING BY HAND.

She mashes some peppers with a rock.

Tony says TAKE YOUR LIFE
INTO YOUR OWN HANDS.
WE'RE ON THE ROAD NOW.

The narrator says AS THEY TRAVEL,
THEY'LL SEE HOW THE LANGUAGE
OF FOOD TRANSCENDS CULTURAL
DIFFERENCES.

Dave says I'VE NEVER HUFFED
ON A CHEESE BEFORE.

The narrator says AND A WORLD AWAY
FROM HOME.

Rick sits by a beach.

Rick says THIS IS WHY I
LOVE AUSTRALIA.

At a food cart, chef 1 says THERE'S NO EXCUSE
FOR A BAD PIE IN AUSTRALIA.

Chef 2 says NO.

The caption changes to "Rick Stein. Australia."

Rick says THIS IS THE
BEGINNING, WHERE DO WE END?

The narrator says THEY'LL LEARN
LESSONS THAT COULD CHANGE THE
WAY WE COOK FOREVER.

The caption changes to "John Torode. Argentina."

John says I'VE BEEN
COOKING A BARBECUE WRONGLY ALL
MY LIFE.
WOW.

Music plays. The title "A cook abroad" appears against an image of the streets of India.

The narrator says THIS TIME,
SCOTTISH CHEF TONY SINGH HEADS
TO INDIA TO EXPLORE THE COUNTRY
OF HIS ANCESTORS.

Fast clips show images of Tony in India.

Tony says AND IT FEELS
FANTASTIC!

The narrator says HE'LL EAT AND COOK
HIS WAY ACROSS THE REGION.
[laughing]

Tony says I'M NOT GOOD AT THIS
COOKING LARK.

The narrator says FROM THE PUNJABI
PIT STOPS TO THE TABLES OF THE
MAHARAJAS, HE'LL FIND HIS WAY
TO THE HEART OF HIS OWN
FAMILY'S HISTORY.

Tony says I CAN'T EVEN IMAGINE
WHAT HARDSHIPS THEY WENT
THROUGH.

The narrator says AND UNLEASH HIS
INNER BOLLYWOOD STAR.

(music plays)

A caption reads "Tony Singh’s India."

Tony walks along the streets in traditional Scottish ensemble.

Tony says I'M TONY SINGH.
PEOPLE SEE ME AS AN INDIAN
BECAUSE THIS IS THE
QUINTESSENTIAL LOOK OF AN
INDIAN FROM THE MAHARAJA:
TURBAN, BEARD, LOVELY TAN.
BUT I WAS BORN IN SCOTLAND AND
I'VE LIVED HERE ALL MY LIFE.
AND NOW, I WANT TO SEE IF I CAN
FIT IN IN INDIA.
I WANT TO GO AND IMMERSE MYSELF
IN INDIA AND SEE IF I CAN GET
AWAY WITH IT.
I'VE BEEN IN THE RESTAURANT
BUSINESS FOR 22 YEARS.
MY STYLE OF FOOD IS NOT CURRY.
I'M A CLASSICALLY TRAINED CHEF;
IT'S ALWAYS BEEN ABOUT LOCAL
PRODUCE, SCOTCH PRODUCE, FRENCH
TECHNIQUE.
WHAT I DO KNOW ABOUT INDIAN
FOOD COMES FROM MY MUM, AND
EVEN SHE'S A GLASWEGIAN BORN
AND BRED.

Tony is in the kitchen with his mom. She’s in her sixties, with long brown graying hair. She wears a floral dress and a head scarf.

She says THE WAY I WAS
CHOPPIN' ONIONS, AND ONE OF
YOUR COUSINS SAID TO ME, NO, WE
DON'T CHOP THEM LIKE THAT, YOU
KNOW?

Tony says BUT I WANT TO FIND OUT
ABOUT MORE THAN JUST FOOD: MY
MISSION IS PERSONAL.
EVERY TIME I SPEAK TO MY
PARENTS, I'M FINDING OUT
SOMETHING NEW ABOUT HOW THEY
CAME TO BE IN SCOTLAND.

Tony’s dad joins them. He’s in his sixties, with white hair in a turban and a goatee. HE wears gray trousers, a blue shirt and a striped tie.

He says EVERYBODY LEFT
EVERYTHING, ALL THEIR
BELONGINGS, THEIR HOUSES,
EVERYTHING.

Tony says MY KNOWLEDGE OF MY
FAMILY HISTORY NOW IS ABOUT
THAT.
IT'S LIKE MY KNOWLEDGE OF
PUNJABI FOOD IS LIKE THAT
BECAUSE IT'S VAST, AND THIS
JOURNEY, THIS TRIP OF DISCOVERY
IS GOING TO BE FOR BOTH.

(music plays)

A world map shows the location of India.

Tony says MY FAMILY STORY BEGINS IN 1947
WHEN THE COUNTRY WAS DIVIDED
INTO PAKISTAN AND INDIA: THE
PARTITION.
I'M HEADING TO THE NORTHWESTERN
STATE OF PUNJAB, HOME OF THE
SIKH RELIGION AND WHERE MY
DAD'S FAMILY ARE FROM.
AND I'M STARTING MY JOURNEY IN
AMRITSAR.

An animated map shows the location of Punjab, Amristar.

(music plays)

Tony says I'VE ONLY BEEN TO INDIA TWICE
IN MY LIFE, AND THOSE WERE
FLEETING VISITS.
SO, THIS IS GOING TO BE A HUGE
ADVENTURE AND A CHANCE TO SEE
IF I CAN REALLY FIT IN.

He gets in an auto-rikshaw and leaves the airport.

(music plays)

Tony says THIS IS IT; THIS IS WHAT I
EXPECTED TO HIT ME AS SOON AS I
WALKED OUT OF THE AIRPORT.
AND IT FEELS FANTASTIC!

He’s driven along busy streets full of traffic and animals.

(music plays)

He says YOU TAKE YOUR LIFE INTO YOUR
OWN HANDS; WE'RE ON THE ROAD
NOW!
[honking]
I'M JUST SO EXCITED; I'M HERE
TO FIND OUT ABOUT AUTHENTIC
PUNJABI FOOD - TO SEE THE REAL
THING, HEAR THE STORIES, FIND
OUT HOW IT'S CHANGED, HOW THE
HISTORY, HOW THE LAND, HOW THE
PEOPLE HAVE SHAPED THE COOKING,
THE TECHNIQUES, THE INGREDIENTS
THAT I CALL MY OWN.
I'M IN THE HOLY CITY OF
AMRITSAR, THE SPIRITUAL HOME OF
SIKHISM.
IT'S THE EVE OF THE MOST
IMPORTANT RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL OF
THE YEAR, DIWALI, THE FESTIVAL
OF LIGHTS.
BUT AFTER TWO PLANES, A HAIRY
RICKSHAW RIDE...
THANK YOU!
I'M CREAM CRACKERED, AND
TOMORROW I HAVE AN EARLY START.

He arrives at the hotel.

(music plays)

He says IT'S DIWALI, OR BANDI CHHOR
DIVAS FOR SIKHS, AND I'M
GETTING READY FOR THE GOLDEN
TEMPLE.
MY WORRY RIGHT NOW, APART FROM
GETTING TO THE TEMPLE, TO THE
GURDWARA, IS WHAT I'M GOING TO
WEAR, WHAT SHIRT I'M GOING TO
WEAR.
BECAUSE EVERYBODY'S GOING TO BE
DRESSED UP; IT'S GOING TO BE
FANTASTIC.
IT'S, YOU GET THERE, IT'S THE
BEGINNING OF THE YEAR - YOU
KNOW WHAT I MEAN?
IT'S THAT WHOLE THING OF, YEAH,
IT'S A FRESH START, IT'S GOOD.
AS I JOIN OTHER PILGRIMS ON
THEIR WAY TO THE GOLDEN TEMPLE,
THE ATMOSPHERE IS ELECTRIC!
THE BUTTERFLIES ARE STARTING.
I'M SO EXCITED, DO YOU KNOW
WHAT I MEAN?
IT'S JUST THAT THING OF
ANTICIPATION; IT'S JUST - YOU
CAN'T EXPLAIN IT.
WOW, MY CHILDHOOD HEROES.

He spots a man in an orange tunic and a giant intricate hat.

[speaking Punjabi]

Tony says THE NIHANG, SIKH WARRIORS, AND
I'VE NOT MET THEM; I'VE NOT
SEEN THEM IN PERSON.
[speaking Punjabi]
IT'S SURREAL FOR ME.
YOU CAN JUST FEEL IT COMING UP
TO IT; THERE'S JUST SOMETHING
ABOUT IT.
YOU CAN HEAR THE MADNESS BEHIND
YOU AND THE HUBBUB AND
EVERYBODY'S COMING IN, BUT
EVERYBODY'S JUST TAKING THEIR
OWN TIME; THEY'RE JUST QUIETING
DOWN.
THEY KNOW THEY'RE GOING
SOMEWHERE DIVINE.
AS A SIKH ON DIWALI, THIS IS
THE PLACE; THIS IS THE CENTRE
OF SIKHISM.
TO COME DURING DIWALI YOU'RE A
LUCKY PERSON, AND I'M A VERY
LUCKY PERSON TO BE HERE.

(music plays)

He enters a temple.

He says THE GOLDEN TEMPLE IS A
BREATHTAKING SIGHT.
IT HAS FOUR ENTRANCES TO SHOW
THAT ALL ARE WELCOME,
REGARDLESS OF FAITH, GENDER, OR
CASTE.
THE WHOLE COMPLEX IS SACRED,
AND PILGRIMS FROM ALL OVER THE
WORLD COME HERE TO WORSHIP.
LANGAR, OR COMMUNAL EATING, IS
A CORNERSTONE OF THE SIKH FAITH
AND A MAJOR PART OF THE
CELEBRATIONS.
THE FOOD IS FREE AND THE
OPERATION IS RUN BY VOLUNTEERS.
ONE OF THE GREATEST HONOURS FOR
ANY SIKH IS TO DO SERVICE, AND
MOST OF THE WORK IS DONE IN
SILENCE AS A SIGN OF RESPECT.
THERE MAY BE AN ARMY OF
WASHER-UPPERS, BUT THAT'S
BECAUSE THE KITCHEN WILL FEED
OVER HALF A MILLION PILGRIMS
TODAY.
TO COPE WITH THE NUMBERS, FOOD
IS COOKED IN MASSIVE CAULDRONS.
I'VE BEEN TOLD THIS ONE HOLDS
400 KILOS OF LENTIL DHAL.

Fast clips show images of people baking bread and cooking stews.

Tony says BREAD, RATHER THAN RICE, IS THE
STAPLE FOOD OF PUNJAB, AND HERE
THEY CAN CHURN OUT OVER 20,000
WHEAT FLOUR ROTIS AN HOUR.
THAT IS ONE OF THE CORNERSTONES
OF OUR FAITH; IT'S SIMPLE FARE
WHERE EVERYBODY IS TREATED
EQUAL.
YOU SIT ON THE FLOOR AND YOU
DON'T CARE WHO'S SITTING NEXT
TO YOU.
IT'S ALWAYS VEGETARIAN; IT'S
ALWAYS SOMETHING THAT ANYBODY
CAN AFFORD.
THIS IS THE MOST AMAZING THING
ABOUT PUNJABI FOOD: IT'S SO
INTERLINKED WITH THE SIKH
TENETS OF SIKHISM: KIRAT KARO,
VAND CHHAKO, AND NAAM JAPO,
WHICH IS HONEST WORK, THEN
SHARE WHAT YOU HAVE, AND THEN
MEDITATE ON GOD.
THE GOLDEN TEMPLE, IT'S LIKE
THE VATICAN FOR CATHOLICS.
THERE'S NO OTHER PLACE LIKE IT;
IT'S AWE-INSPIRING.
I'VE SEEN HOW THE GOLDEN TEMPLE
FEEDS THE MASSES, BUT HOW DO
PEOPLE DO DIWALI ON A MORE
MODEST SCALE AT HOME?
I'VE BEEN INVITED TO CELEBRATE
THIS SPECIAL OCCASION WITH A
FAMILY WHO LIVE ON THE OTHER
SIDE OF TOWN.
IT'S A REAL HONOUR, SO I'M NOT
COMING EMPTY-HANDED.
AND IN GOOD TRADITION I'M
TAKING SWEETS, AND THESE ONES
I'VE MADE MYSELF BECAUSE IT'S
VERY AUSPICIOUS.
[speaking Punjabi]

He meets with 2 men in the streets.

Tony says HAPPY DIWALI, HAPPY DIWALI.
IN THE PUNJABI TRADITION,
POURING MUSTARD OIL TO WELCOME
GUESTS IS A RITUAL.
HAPPY DIWALI.
AND I AM INDEED WELCOMED BY THE
WHOLE EXTENDED FAMILY.
[speaking Punjabi]
I'VE JUST MADE THAT FROM
SCOTLAND, SO IT'S SHORTBREAD
AND TABLET, LIKE BARFI.
SO, I'M HERE TO LEARN SOMETHING
IN THE KITCHEN.

A man in his sixties says EVERYTHING IS READY IN THE KITCHEN; YOU CAN GO AN START THERE.

He sits with Karandeep and a woman and peel onions.

Karandeep is in his twenties, with way brown hair in a turban and a beard. HE wears jeans and a plaid shirt.

Tony says KARANDEEP, WHAT DO YOU
LIKE?
WHAT'S YOUR FAVOURITE DISH YOUR
MUM COOKS FOR YOU?

Karandeep says RAJMA CHAWAL.

Tony says RAJMA CHAWAL, IS THAT
WHAT WE'RE MAKING NOW?
THAT'S KIDNEY BEANS.

Karandee says YEAH, IT'S BEANS.

Tony says IT'S GOING TO BE WITH
RICE, WHICH IS QUITE
INTERESTING BECAUSE IN PUNJAB,
ACTUALLY, THEY JUST EAT LOTS OF
BREAD.
SO, THIS RICE DISH IS
KARENDEEP'S FAVOURITE; THAT'S
WHAT I'M GOING TO GET SHOWN.
HOW OFTEN DO YOU HELP IN THE
KITCHEN?

Karandeep says I DON’T WANT TO HELP, BECAUSE I DON’T KNOW ANYTHING.

Tony says BUT NOW, YOU SEE THAT,
IT MAKES YOU MORE ELIGIBLE TO
GET MARRIED.
[laughing]

The woman says HE WON’T HELP HIS MUM, BUT HE’LL HELP HIS WIFE.

Tony says OKAY, WE'RE READY TO
GO INTO THE KITCHEN.
WE'RE MAKING A RED KIDNEY BEAN
CURRY, AND WE'RE STARTING WITH
A PUNJABI COOKING STAPLE:
MUSTARD OIL, AND LOTS OF IT.
RIGHT, SO, THAT'S A FANTASTIC
TIP I NEVER KNEW.
YOU CAN STILL SMELL THE MUSTARD
OIL; WHEN IT'S AT TEMPERATURE,
YOU WON'T SMELL IT.

He throw chopped onions and other ingredients in the pan.

[sizzling]

He says SO, THAT'S GOING IN; THAT'S
GOING TO TAKE 10 TO 15 MINUTES
TO BROWN.
ONCE THE ONIONS HAVE SOFTENED,
WE ADD GARLIC AND GINGER PASTE.
SO, I'M GETTING THE GREEN
CHILLIES, GOING INTO THE MAGIC
MINCER WITH THE TOMATOES.
AND THERE'S ONLY THREE CHILLIES
GOING IN, AND THIS GETS AWAY
FROM THE FACT THAT EVERYTHING
SHOULD BE HOT AND MAD SPICY,
IT'S NOT; AROMATIC AND TASTY.
[speaking Punjabi]
AUNTIE SAID TO ME, IS THIS HOW
I DO IT BACK HOME?
I SAID, I'VE GOT A WEE BOY THAT
DOES THAT FOR ME OR A COMMIS ON
AN ELECTRIC MACHINE.
[speaking Punjabi]
[laughing]
NOW YOU'RE GOING TO BE DOING
THIS, AH?
AND YOU'LL FIND A SPICE BOX
LIKE THIS IN EVERY PUNJABI
KITCHEN WITH THE FLAVOUR
ESSENTIALS FOR MOST DISHES:
GARAM MASALA, SALT, TURMERIC,
AND TWO TYPES OF CHILLI.
OKAY, THAT'S IT, READY.
THAT'S IN THERE, AND THIS IS...
SO, WE'VE GOT KIDNEY BEANS THAT
HAVE BEEN SOAKED AND COOKED IN
A PRESSURE COOKER WITH TWO
TEASPOONS OF SALT.
MOST PUNJABIS ARE VEGETARIAN,
AND SIMPLE VEGGIE DISHES LIKE
THIS ARE THE MAINSTAY OF FAMILY
FEASTS.
OUTSIDE, THINGS ARE GETTING
LIVELY.
BUT FOR NOW, I'M TAKING A MORE
SEDATE APPROACH TO THE FESTIVAL
OF LIGHT.

Tony and two other men light small oil candles.

A man in his fifties says IT’S AN OLD TRADITION, OLD. THERE ARE PREPARED BY THE TRADITIONAL PEOPLE. THEIR JOB IS ONLY TO PREPARE THE LAMPS.

Tony says I'M MISSING HOME NOW.
WE DO THE SAME, BUT IT'S WITH
TEA LIGHTS; IT'S ONE OF THE
THINGS THAT THE KIDS LOVE
DOING, LIGHTING THEM WITH ME
AND PUTTING THEM AROUND THE
HOUSE.
SO, I'M FEELING A BIT SAD.

He places the candles all over the house.

(music plays)

Tony says HAPPY DIWALI.
I MAY BE FEELING
HOMESICK, BUT THAT'S SOON CURED
BY THE WARM WELCOME.
DIWALI HERE IS LIKE THE
CHRISTMAS HOLIDAYS BACK IN THE
UK, FILLED WITH FAMILY,
FRIENDS, GIFTS...
AND, OF COURSE, FOOD.
FOR DIWALI, WE DO THE SAME,
HAVE THE FIREWORKS, WE HAVE
LIGHTS ROUND THE HOUSE.

A man in his forties says ALL TOGETHER LIKE THIS.

Tony says THIS IS LIKE BEING IN
MY OWN HOME.

(music plays)

Tony says AS IT'S A SPECIAL OCCASION,
WE'RE HAVING A RICE DISH RATHER
THAN THE PUNJABI STAPLE, BREAD.
UNLIKE CHRISTMAS, THERE ISN'T
ONE TRADITIONAL DIWALI MEAL SO
PEOPLE EAT WHATEVER THEY LIKE.
THE RED KIDNEY BEANS TASTE
FANTASTIC AND EVEN REMIND ME OF
MY MUM'S COOKING - SO SIMPLE
BUT FULL OF FLAVOUR.
NOW, THOUGH, IT'S PLAYTIME!

Everybody plays with fire crackers outside.

(music plays)

Tony says STAND BACK FROM THE FIREWORKS,
EH?
50 YARDS, I DON'T THINK SO!
AND LIKE AT HOME, I'M ONLY
ALLOWED THE SPARKLERS.
[loud whistling]

(music plays)
[fireworks popping]

Tony says THE AMAZING THING TODAY WAS
THAT SENSE OF FAMILY, SHARING
AND CARING.
IT'S EXACTLY WHAT WE DO AT
HOME.
FIREWORKS MAY BE NOT TO THAT
SCALE, BUT SITTING DOWN WITH
YOUR FAMILY, IT'S SO SPECIAL.
AND THE FLAVOURS, THE FLAVOURS
I'VE BEEN HAVING AT HOME, IT'S
TRUE PUNJABI FLAVOURS AND
THEY'RE THE SAME HERE.
I THINK THAT'S ONE OF THE
THINGS THAT'S MADE ME CONNECT
AND FEEL AT HOME.
[fireworks popping]
[crackling]

(music plays)

Fast clips show images of a busy street.

Tony says AFTER LAST NIGHT'S
CELEBRATIONS, I CAN'T BELIEVE
I'M HUNGRY AGAIN.
BUT IT'S NOT SURPRISING:
EVERYWHERE I LOOK THERE'S
DELICIOUS FOOD.
JUST SEEN AN ELEPHANT, SOMEBODY
NEARLY GETTING SQUISHED AT THE
ROUNDABOUT, AND THIS IS BEFORE
BREAKFAST!
BUT THAT'S WHAT I'M HERE FOR.
I'M ON LAWRENCE ROAD, I'M
STARVING, AND I WANT TO FIND
OUT WHAT WE HAVE FOR BREAKFAST
IN PUNJAB.
AND I'VE BEEN TOLD THERE'S A
CRACKING PLACE JUST ROUND THE
CORNER.
[honking]

He stops by a street food vendor.

Tony says SEE THAT, LOOK AT THAT.
SO, THAT'S A DOUGH, BUT HE'S
STUFFING IT WITH LENTILS.
SO, HE'S MAKING PURI.
IT'S A DEEP-FRIED BREAD.
[speaking Punjabi]
CLARIFIED BUTTER.
WOW, LOOK AT THAT.
[speaking Punjabi]
THIS IS A THING THAT YOU HAVE
FOR BREAKFAST, EH?
OH, THEY'RE - OKAY, THANK YOU.
BEST PLACE TO GET PURI CHANA IS
KINDA JUST THERE, SO THAT'S
WHERE WE'RE OFF TO.
NO NEED FOR A MENU HERE;
THERE'S ONLY ONE THING ON
OFFER.
AND THIS IS WHAT IT'S ABOUT,
PURI CHOLE; THIS IS WHAT THEY
HAVE FOR BREAKFAST.
THAT'S WHAT I CALL A PURI,
THANK YOU.
THAT'S ALOO SABZI, POTATOES,
AND THAT'S THE CHOLE; THAT'S
THE CHICKPEAS, SLICED ONIONS,
AND PICKLE.

He grabs the loaf of fried bread.

He says THAT'S FEATHER LIGHT; SHOULD
FEEL - OH, IT'S JUST...
THAT'S LOVELY, THE CHICKPEAS
MELT IN YOUR MOUTH.
WOW.
SO THIS IS IT, BREAD.
MOST PEOPLE THINK INDIAN FOOD'S
RICE.
MOST OF INDIA, THE BREAD BASKET
OF INDIA.
IN PUNJAB, WE HAVE ALL THESE
DIFFERENT BREAD: PURI, ROTI,
RUMALI ROTI, NAAN.
AND YOU EAT IT WITH YOUR
FINGERS.
THIS IS YOUR IMPLEMENT; THERE'S
NO FORKS AND KNIVES.
THIS IS WHAT IT'S ALL ABOUT.
YOU ONLY PAY 35 PENCE PER PURI.
THE REST IS ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT
PUNJABI STYLE, AND THE REFILLS
KEEP ON COMING.
YOU EITHER HAVE TO EAT QUICK
AND GET OUT, OR I'M GOING TO
HAVE TO BE RUDE AND SAY, STOP.
THIS IS WONDERFUL.
OH, THAT'S ME; JUST HAD MY
FIRST PUNJABI BREAKFAST.
YOU CAN STILL FEEL THE
CLARIFIED BUTTER DRIPPING DOWN
YOUR THROAT.
THIS IS FOOD TO DO THINGS ON,
NOT SIT AROUND IN AN OFFICE.
JUST AS WELL I HAVE A PACKED
DAY AHEAD.
FIRST, I'M OFF TO LOOK FOR MY
ANCESTRAL HOME, THE HOUSE THAT
BELONGED TO MY
GREAT-GRANDFATHER.

(music plays)

Tony says IN 1947, AFTER OVER A CENTURY
OF COLONIAL RULE, BRITAIN GAVE
INDIA INDEPENDENCE AND SPLIT
PUNJAB INTO TWO: INDIA AND
PAKISTAN.

An animated map shows the partition.

Tony says THE AREA AROUND THE NEWLY
CREATED BORDER WAS VOLATILE,
AND AMRITSAR BECAME A DANGEROUS
AND VIOLENT PLACE TO LIVE.
MY GREAT-GRANDPARENTS JOINED
THE MILLIONS FORCED TO FLEE TO
THE SAFETY OF DELHI, AND I WANT
TO FIND THE HOUSE THEY LEFT
BEHIND.
I KNOW IT'S IN SULTANWIND GATE,
WHICH IS THAT WAY, BUT I NEED
TO GET MY SKATES ON AND GET
ALONG THERE BEFORE I GET MASHED
UP.

(music plays)

Tony says SULTANWIND GATE, RIGHT, SO
WE'RE IN THE RIGHT AREA.
I'VE GOT THE NAME OF THE
STREET, FATAWALIGALI.

He asks a local man for directions.

The local man says
FATAWALIGALI?

(music plays)
[speaking local language]

Tony says SHUKRIA.
ARMED WITH SOME CLUES, I WANT
TO SEE HOW MY FAMILY USED TO
LIVE.
IF I CAN SURVIVE LONG ENOUGH TO
FIND THE HOUSE.
THAT'S MENTAL, TOTALLY MAD MAN;
IT'S A GROWN MAN CROSSING THE
STREET.
THAT'S MAD, BUT SHOW NO FEAR,
EH?
DONE IT.
RIGHT, SULTANWIND GATE.
NO STREET NAMES, SO I'M A BIT
STUCK.
IT'S TIME TO PUT MY BEST
SCOTTISH-PUNJABI TO THE TEST.
FATAWALIGALI.

He asks a local woman for direction.

[speaking local language]
[metallic scraping]

Tony says A FOUNDRY INSIDE A BUILT-UP
AREA.
[speaking local language]

Another woman shows him the way.

He says THANK YOU.
IT'S 70 YEARS AGO, SO THEY
DON'T KNOW WHERE IT IS, BUT
I'VE BEEN ASKED IN FOR TEA.
THAT'S PUNJABI HOSPITALITY.

Another local man helps with directions.

[speaking local language]

Tony says I CAN'T BELIEVE - WELL, THIS IS
IT; THIS IS WHERE IT STARTED
FROM.
I'M A BIT SPEECHLESS, ACTUALLY,
BECAUSE THIS IS THE BEGINNING;
THIS IS MY GREAT-GRANDDAD'S
HOUSE.

He stands before a building with a blue door. HE knocks. A man with two children opens.

[knocking]
[speaking local language]

Tony says AFTER SOME EXPLAINING, THIS
LOVELY FAMILY ARE LETTING THIS
CRAZY SCOT INTO THEIR HOME.
MY GREAT-GRANDDAD WAS HERE, AND
DURING PARTITION THEY MOVED
OUT, THEY GOT PUSHED DOWN TO
DELHI, AND THEN MY GRANDDAD
WENT TO SCOTLAND.
SO, I WAS BORN AND RAISED IN
SCOTLAND.
IT'S JUST THAT FEELING, YOU
KNOW?

They show him around the house.

Tony says DON'T KNOW; IT'S QUITE TINGLE
IN THE TUMMY.
YOU CAN SEE THE CHANGES BUT
THEY'RE NOT HUGE; YOU KNOW WHAT
I MEAN?
I THINK PROBABLY THIS IS, IN
ITS ESSENCE, THE SAME.

They walk up the stairs towards the rooftop.

Tony says MY GRAN USED TO SAY THEY USED
TO GO ACROSS THE ROOFTOPS, SO
OBVIOUSLY THIS HAS BEEN BUILT
ON.
BUT SEEING IT FIRST HAND AND
BEING TOLD WHERE IT'S SO
DIFFERENT, AND EVEN THOUGH IT'S
CHANGED A BIT, YOU CAN STILL
SEE THEM SITTING OUT HERE.
BUT WHAT AN UPHEAVAL FOR
PARTITION, WHEN INDIA GOT
DIVIDED INTO INDIA-PAKISTAN, TO
LEAVE EVERYTHING BEHIND AND GET
PUSHED DOWN.
ALL THE REFUGEES, IT WAS ONE OF
THE BIGGEST MOVEMENTS OF PEOPLE
EVER.
BUT MOST PEOPLE THOUGHT THEY
WERE COMING BACK.
MY GREAT-GRANDDAD NEVER CAME
BACK; THEY NEVER CAME BACK TO
THE HOUSE.
[meowing]
ONE OF THE THINGS THAT ALWAYS
GOES THROUGH YOUR HEAD, IF THE
PARTITION NEVER HAPPENED, THIS
IS WHERE I WOULD HAVE BEEN
BROUGHT UP MOST LIKELY.
YEAH, NOT A BAD LIFE.
I'M GRATEFUL TO THIS FAMILY FOR
GIVING ME A GLIMPSE OF HOW MY
GREAT-GRANDPARENTS USED TO
LIVE.
[speaking local language]
TIME FOR A MEMENTO.
[speaking local language]
GOT MY PICTURE TAKEN; QUITE A
FEW OF THEM, ACTUALLY.
SOME WITH MY HEAD, SOME WITHOUT
MY HEAD, BUT I'M JUST CHUFFED.
SO, I'M OFF NOW ON ANOTHER
ADVENTURE.
THE SUN MIGHT GO DOWN, BUT THE
EATING AND THE MADNESS NEVER
STOPS.

(music plays)

He walks on the streets at night. He sees a man riding an elephant in the middle along the streets.

Tony says YOU DON'T SEE THAT EVERY DAY,
EH?
ELEPHANT - YOU'D THINK THEY'D
HAVE LIGHTS ON IT THOUGH.
[speaking local language]
SIX, HALF SIX - THAT'S 10 HOURS
'TIL MY BREAKFAST.
I DIDN'T HAVE LUNCH, BUT THAT'S
THE ESSENCE OF PUNJABI FOOD, IS
TO KEEP YOU GOING.
BUT NOW I'M HUNGRY.
I'M MEETING A LOCAL FOOD
BLOGGER, JAIDEEP.
HE'S PROMISED TO TAKE ME ON A
FOOD CRAWL OF AMRITSAR AND
INTRODUCE ME TO A LOCAL CUSTOM
CALLED CAR-O-BAR.
I'M INTRIGUED.
FANTASTIC, THANKS FOR TALKING
TO ME ONLINE ABOUT EVERYTHING.

Jaideep is in his late forties, with short wavy brown hair and a moustache. He wears a gingham shirt.

Jaideep says NOT A PROBLEM.

Tony says WHY ARE YOU ONLINE?
I WAS AMAZED I FOUND YOUR BLOG
AND EVERYTHING.
WHAT'S YOUR PASSION ABOUT IT?

Jaideep says MY PASSION IS FOOD. I’VE BEEN DOING IT FOR FIVE TO SIX YEARS NOW. THE AIM IS TO GET BEYOND WHAT THE TOURISTY SPOTS IN AMRITSAR ARE.

Tony says YEAH, AND THIS IS THE
THING, CAR-O-BAR.

Jaideep says IT HAS TO BE SHOWN. OR YOU WON’T BE ABLE TO UNDERSTAND THAT.

Tony says OKAY, SHOW ME.

Jaideep says LET'S GO.

(music plays)

Tony says THEY MIGHT HOLD ONTO
OLD TRADITIONS HERE, BUT I
THINK I'M ABOUT TO DISCOVER
THEIR ENTHUSIASM FOR NEW ONES
TOO.

Jaideep says THIS HERE IS NOW CAR-O-BAR. WE’RE IN THE CAR AND HERE’S THE BAR.

Jaideep takes a bottles of water and liquor off his bag.

Tony laughs.

Tony says CAR-O-BAR.

Jaideep says CAR-O-BAR.

Tony says AND WHAT'S THIS?

Jaideep says THIS IS A VERY SPECIAL INDIAN RUM.

Tony says AND WHY RUM?
IS THAT BECAUSE OF THE SUGAR
CANE?

Jaideep says IT’S BECAUSE IT’S CHEAP.

Tony says THERE YOU GO, RIGHT OF
PASSAGE ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD,
CHEAP DRINK.

Jaideep says CHEAP DRINK; START
POURING.

Tony says CRACK IT OPEN, OKAY.
SO, WHO'S THE UNLUCKY PERSON
THAT DRIVES THE CAR-O-BAR?

Jaideep says TONIGHT IT’S GOING TO BE ME.

Tony says SO, WHAT YOU ON, SODA?

Jaideep says I’M ON SODA.

Jaideep says GO FOR IT.

Tony says GO FOR IT.

Jaideep says AND THE KEY TO CAR-O-BAR IS TO DRINK AS FAST AS YOU CAN.
AND THEN YOU GO FOR YOUR FOOD, THEN YOU COME BACK, TAKE ANOTHER HIT, GO OUT, EAT SOME MORE, AND REPEAT TILL…

Tony says OKAY, REPEAT 'TIL YOU
FALL OVER.

Jaideep says THERE YOU GO.

Tony says THEY MIGHT NOT SERVE
ALCOHOL AT THESE STALLS, BUT
THE FOOD IS MEANT TO BE OUT
OF THIS WORLD.

Jaideep Says SO TONY, NOW WE ARE HAVING FISH AND THIS IS THE GO-TO FISH JOINT.

Tony says THE GO-TO, THE PLACE.

Jaideep says GO-TO, THE PLACE.

Tony says YOU SEE, IN EDINBURGH,
YOU'D ASK FOR ONE FISH AND
CHIPS.

Jaideep says WE ASK BY WEIGHT.

Tony says BY WEIGHT?

Jaideep says WE ARE HAVING 250 GRAMS TO START THINGS OFF.

Tony says I LIKE THIS.
PUNJAB MEANS LAND OF FIVE
RIVERS, AND THIS IS A
FRESHWATER CATFISH.
IT'S A BIT LIKE COD.

Jaideep says AND WITH A BIT OF
SALAD ON THE SIDE.

Tony says WHITE RADISH, AND
WHAT'S IN THE CHUTNEY?

Jaideep says CHUTNEY IS A MINT
CHUTNEY.

Tony says YOU CAN TASTE THE
FISH; YOU'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT
OF HEAT.
THIS IS FABULOUS.
JUST GOING PLACE TO PLACE, IT'S
LIKE TAPAS, BUT THIS IS NOT
BECAUSE YOU'RE DRINKING; YOU'RE
TAKING YOUR OWN DRINK.
YOU'RE NOT GOING TO THE BAR FOR
THE NIBBLES; YOU'RE TAKING YOUR
BAR TO THE NIBBLES.
BUT WHO DOES IT?

Jaideep says IT’S A WAY OF GETTING OUT OF HOME, EVERYBODY DOES IT. IT’S NOT ABOUT COST; COST IS THE LEAST CONCERN.

Tony says SO, IT'S NOT ABOUT
COST?

Jaideep says BECAUSE THIS IS NOT A CHEAP FISH WHICH WE ARE HAVING. IT’S JUST THAT THE BEAUTY OF THE FOOD IS WHAT GETS YOU OUT OF THE HOUSE. SEE LIKE THIS GUY, HE MAKES ONLY FISH, AND YOU’LL BE WANTING NOW MAYBE SOME MEAT. THIS GUY DOESN’T DO IT SO YOU MOVE TO THE NEXT PLACE.

Tony says SO, YOU HAVE TO MOVE.

Jaideep says YOU HAVE TO MOVE.

Tony says I'M READY.

Jaideep says YOU'RE READY.
SO, THE FISH IS DONE.

Tony says FISH IS DONE; NOW?

Jaideep says NOW WE LOOK FOR SOME BIRDS.

Tony says OH, HO!
NO, NOT THOSE SORTS OF BIRDS!
TANDOORI CHICKEN IS A PUNJABI
SPECIALTY, SKEWERED AND COOKED
IN A TRADITIONAL, WOOD-FIRED
OVEN, THE TANDOOR.
AND JAIDEEP IS TAKING ME TO THE
PLACE TO TRY IT.
[laughing]

Jaideep says THIS IS ADVANCED CAR-O-BAR. THIS IS NOW CAR-O-RESTAURANT. NOW THE FOOD IS GOING TO BE SERVED RIGHT HERE TO YOU.

Tony says DRIVE-THROUGH?

Jaideep says DRIVE-THROUGH. EXACTLY.

Tony says WHERE FROM?
[honking]
MY MOUTH'S WATERING ALREADY.

Jaideep says THANK YOU.
SO TONY, THIS HERE IS TANDOORI CHICKEN OF AMRITSAR. THIS IS THE GREEN MINT CHUTNEY.

Tony says IT'S SO TENDER AND SO
SUCCULENT.
IF YOU'RE BACK IN THE UK, MOST
RESTAURANTS, YOU'VE GOT
TANDOORI CHICKEN - NOTHING LIKE
THIS.
GAS OVENS; YOU'VE JUST LOST
THAT FLAVOUR.
SO, THIS IS WHY THEY STILL USE
WOOD, FOR CENTURIES, AND THAT'S
WHY THEY STICK TO IT.

Jaideep says AND BASICALLY, YOU
CAN TASTE IT.

Tony says YOU CAN, AND THAT'S
THE AMAZING THING.

Jaideep says THAT'S THE BEAUTY.

Tony says I HEARD A STORY ABOUT
THE METAL RODS USED TO BE
SWORDS.

Jaideep says I DON’T KNOW IF IT’S MYTH OR HOW IT IS HOW TANDOORI COOKING CAME INTO INDIA AND MORE INTO THE PUNJAB. IT WAS ON THE BACK OF THE AFGHAN INVADERS. THEY USED TO CARRY THEIR OWN TANDOORS WITH THEM AND EACH GUY WOULD SKEWER ON TO HIS SWORD WHATEVER MEAT OR POULTRY AND PUT IT INTO THE TANDOOR.

Tony says SEE, THAT'S HOW GOOD
IT IS; THAT'S LIKE LASTED
THROUGH THE AGES.
AMAZING.
AFTER WE'VE HAD THIS, TO FINISH
OFF CAR-O-BAR, WHAT WOULD YOU
DO?

Jaideep says CAR-O-BAR ENDS WITH SWEETS.

(music plays)

Jaideep says THESE GUYS HAVE THEIR OWN DAIRY FARMS AND THEIR OWN FULL FAT BUFFALO MILK.

Tony says PUNJABI CUISINE USES A
LOT OF DAIRY, SO WHAT BETTER
WAY TO FINISH THE NIGHT THAN
WITH THIS SOLID, BUTTERY CREAM
WITH FRUIT, MADE FROM SUPER
RICH BUFFALO MILK.
WOW, 52 PERCENT FAT, AND IT
TASTES FANTASTIC.
[chuckling]
CAR-O-BAR: WHAT AN IDEA, EH;
WHAT A CONCEPT!
I LOVE IT, GOING OUT.
SHAME FOR THE DESIGNATED
DRIVER, BUT THE BONUS IS THE
FOOD OF ONE PERSON DOING ONE
THING JUST RIGHT, AND THEN YOU
GO TO THE NEXT.
I THINK IT'S A FANTASTIC IDEA.

(music plays)

Tony says I THINK I'M FINALLY GETTING THE
HANG OF CROSSING THESE ROADS,
BUT THERE'S NO WAY THIS SCOT IS
GETTING BEHIND THE WHEEL.
SO, I'VE HIRED A DRIVER WHO'S
TAKING ME ON THE NEXT PART OF
MY ADVENTURE.
I'M TRAVELLING ON THE GRAND
TRUNK, OR GT ROAD, DOWN TO
DELHI, THE SAME 300-MILE
JOURNEY THAT MILLIONS OF SIKHS,
INCLUDING MY OWN FAMILY, WERE
FORCED TO MAKE AS REFUGEES.

An animated map shows the route to Delhi.

(music plays)

Tony says AFTER INDIA DECLARED
INDEPENDENCE, THE TENSION
BETWEEN DIFFERENT RELIGIONS WAS
HIGH.
IN PUNJAB, SIKHS AND MUSLIMS
CLASHED AS THEY BOTH SCRAMBLED
TO GET TO THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE
BORDER AND FIND SAFE HAVEN.
A MILLION PEOPLE DIED FROM
VIOLENCE OR STARVATION TRYING
TO REACH THEIR DESTINATIONS.

Old pictures show images of the people emigrating.

(music plays)

Tony says MY FIRST STOP EN ROUTE TO DELHI
IS AN HOUR OUTSIDE AMRITSAR.
I'M LOOKING FOR A SPOT WHERE A
HOLY ORDER OF SIKH SOLDIERS
HAVE SET UP CAMP.
I WAS RAISED ON STORIES ABOUT
THESE LEGENDARY NOMADIC
WARRIORS, WHOSE WAY OF LIFE
HASN'T CHANGED FOR OVER 300
YEARS.
THIS IS MY CHANCE TO MEET THE
NIHANG, THE SUPERHEROES OF THE
SIKH WORLD.
GETTING TO MEET THEM HASN'T
BEEN EASY, BUT THANKS TO
DALBIR, WHO'S WORKED WITH THEM
FOR YEARS, HERE I AM.
[rhythmic drumming]

He meets with a group of warriors.

He says I'M JUST IN AWE BECAUSE AS I'VE
BEEN GROWING UP, MY GRANDDAD ON
MY MUM'S SIDE USED TO TELL ME
ABOUT THE NIHANG, THE SIKH
SOLDIERS, THE PROTECTORS OF THE
FAITH.
BUT EVERYBODY'S FAITH; THESE
GUYS WENT ABOUT AND LOOKED
AFTER EVERYBODY, AND THEY'RE
HERE.
[rhythmic drumming]
THEIR MARTIAL ART, GATKA, HAS
BEEN AROUND FOR THOUSANDS OF
YEARS, BUT THESE SWORDS AREN'T
JUST FOR SHOW.
[rhythmic drumming]

Fast clips show the warriors practicing their martial art.

Tony says WHY WOULD SPIRITUAL PEOPLE AND
PEACE LOVING PEOPLE DO GATKA?
[rhythmic drumming]

Dalbir is in his thirties, with brown hair in a turban and a beard. He wears white trousers and a white tunic.

He says TO PROTECT THEIR CULTURE AND THE NATION AND THEY’RE ALWAYS READY TO FIGHT AND PROTECT THEIR RELIGION.

Tony says THE NIHANG WERE RARELY
BEATEN ON THE BATTLEFIELD, EVEN
WHEN OUTNUMBERED.
SO, WHERE DO THEY GET THEIR
STRENGTH?
[rhythmic drumming]
THE NIHANG, THEY TRAVEL;
THEY'RE NOMADIC IN THE SENSE OF
THEY GO FROM PLACE TO PLACE.
AND ME BEING A CHEF, I ALWAYS
GO BACK: HOW DID THEY EAT?

Dalbir says I’M GOING TO SHOW YOU THEIR MAIN KITCHEN.

Tony says THANK YOU.
[rhythmic drumming]
THEY HAVE SET UP CAMP IN A
LOCAL GURDWARA, BUT BEFORE I
SEE THEIR OPERATION, I AM BEING
TAKEN TO THE HEAD OF THE ORDER
TO GET HIS BLESSING.
[chanting]
BABAJI WAS SAYING?

The man says YOU’RE WELCOME, THEY’RE VERY HAPPY YOU ARE ALSO A CHEF IN SCOTLAND SO THEY GAVE YOU A LOT OF BLESSINGS.

Tony says EXCELLENT.

Dalbir says YOU'RE WELCOME.

Tony says OPEN KITCHENS WITH
STRICT RULES ARE SET UP EACH
TIME THEY MOVE CAMP.

Tony and Dalbir get off their shoes to enter the kitchen.

Dalbir says THEY ONLY MAKE THEIR FOOD IN IRON BOWLS.

Tony says IRON.

Dalbir says IRON BOWLS.

Tony says WHY?

Dalbir says BECAUSE IT GIVES THE IRON TO THEIR BODIES TO MAKE THEM LIKE IRON.

Tony says THEY ALWAYS COVER
THEIR MOUTHS; SUCH RESPECT IS
PAID TO THE FOOD THAT THEY PUT
A PIECE OF CLOTH OVER THEIR
MOUTH.

Dalbir says THESE PEOPLE ALSO DON’T EAT FOOD FROM THE OUTSIDE, ANYWHERE.

Tony says SO, IT'S AN HONOUR TO
BECOME A CHEF FOR THE NIHANG
BECAUSE THEY ONLY COOK FOR
THEMSELVES.
THEY CAN'T EVEN HAVE PACKAGED
DRINKS, ANYTHING OUTSIDE, AND
OTHER VAVIKI, THE OTHER CHEFS,
NIHANG CHEFS, COOK FOR THEM.
BUT IT'S SUCH AN HONOUR I NEVER
KNEW THIS.

Dalbir says CLOSE.

Tony says I'M NOT ALLOWED INTO
THE KITCHEN, I'M NOT ALLOWED TO
TOUCH ANYTHING BECAUSE I'M NOT
A CHEF, I'M NOT A NIHANG CHEF.

A Nihang chef kneads a huge dough bun.

Dalbir says THIS NIHANG, WHETHER IT’S 50 KILOGRAMS, 100 KILOGRAMS, HE HAS TO DO IT BY HAND, SO THEY HAVE VERY BIG MUSCLES. BIG POWER, LIKE WARRIORS.

Tony says EVERYTHING DONE BY
HAND UNTIL ALL THE PILGRIMS ARE
FED.
BUT THESE VILLAGERS ARE HERE
FOR MORE THAN A FREE LUNCH.
THEY'VE COME TO BE CLOSE TO
THEIR HEROES, AND MANY WILL
DONATE FOOD AND MONEY TO KEEP
THE NIHANG TRADITIONS ALIVE.

(music plays)
[drums beating]

Tony says THESE DAYS, THEIR ROLE MAY BE
MAINLY CEREMONIAL, BUT THEY'RE
KEEPING ALIVE A WAY OF LIFE
UNCHANGED FOR HUNDREDS OF
YEARS.

Dalbir says SO THERE YOU SEE UNDER THE TREES, YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW IN THE GURU’S TIME THEY WERE LOOKING AND LIVING. THEY CHANGE THEIR LOCATION AFTER EVERY THREE DAYS.

Tony says HOW ARE THEY RECEIVED?
HOW DO PEOPLE WELCOME THEM?
[chanting in Punjabi]

Dalbir says WHENEVER THEY ARE GOING ON TO ANOTHER PLACE, PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS WAITING FOR THEM. THEY’RE KEEN TO SEE THEM BECAUSE WHEREVER THEY ARE GOING, PEOPLE CAN BE BAPTISED BY THEM. AND PEOPLE CAN BECOME SIKHS AND PEOPLE CAN LEARN THE TECHNIQUES OF THE MARTIAL ART FROM THEM. YOU CAN SEE THEY ARE NEARLY READY TO GO.

A warrior speaks Punjabi.

Tony says AS A CHILD, YOU HAD IN
YOUR MIND - YOU KNOW, I'VE SEEN
THEM IN BOOKS, I'VE SEEN THEM
IN VIDEOS, READ ABOUT THEM.
BUT THEN MEETING THEM, AMAZING,
AMAZING.
IS THERE A PLACE FOR THEM IN
THIS WORLD?
YES, IT'S NOT VANISHED IN 300
YEARS.
I DON'T THINK THEY'LL VANISH; I
THINK THEY'RE STRONG ENOUGH TO
LOOK AFTER THEMSELVES.
[shouting in Punjabi]

(music plays)
BACK ON THE GRAND TRUNK ROAD,
I'M GLAD I WAS BLESSED BY THE
NIHANG...
[honking]
TO PROTECT ME FROM THE OTHER
DRIVERS!
[honking]
SEE, THAT'S IT, I WOULD NEVER
DRIVE ON THIS ROAD; IT'S TOO
DANGEROUS.
THAT'S WHY I'VE GOT YOU.

Guram is Tony’s driver. He’s in his forties, with brown hair in a turban and a beard. He wears a gingham shirt.

He says IN INDIA FOURTEEN PEOPLE ARE KILLED IN ONE HOUR.

Tony says 14 PEOPLE AN HOUR DIE
ON THE ROADS?

Guram says ONE HOUR, YEAH.

Tony says THAT'S UNBELIEVABLE.

Guram says THIS IS VERY BAD.

Tony says NO, I WOULD NEVER
LET...
YOU CONCENTRATE DRIVING AND
I'LL KID THAT I'M NOT BRICKING
MYSELF.

(music plays)

Tony says WE'RE HEADING DEEP INTO THE
HEART OF RURAL PUNJAB, AND I
CAN SEE THIS IS PROPER FARMING
COUNTRY.
THIS PLACE IS SAID TO HAVE SOME
OF THE MOST FERTILE LAND ON THE
PLANET.
I'VE BEEN LOOKING FORWARD TO
THIS DETOUR OFF THE GT ROAD.
IT COULDN'T BE MORE OF A
CONTRAST TO WHERE I'VE BEEN.

(music plays)
LISTEN.
TRACTORS, BIRDS, LUSH
GREENNESS: THIS IS THE PUNJAB
OF MY CHILDHOOD MEMORIES, THE
MOVIES AND EVERYTHING.
FIELDS OF SUGAR CANE; I JUST
WANTED TO GRAB A BIT AND CHEW
IT AND WALK THROUGH THE FIELDS,
BUT IT'S NOT READY.
SUCH A CHANGE FROM AMRITSAR,
AND THE DRIVE THIS MORNING YOU
COULD JUST SEE IT, ALL THE
GREEN, THE LUSHNESS.
THIS IS AMAZING; THIS IS WHY
PUNJAB, LAND OF FIVE RIVERS, IS
A FERTILE GROUND.
IT'S ALWAYS BEEN PRIZED AS A
BREAD BASKET.
PUNJABIS HAVE A REPUTATION FOR
BEING SKILLED AND HARD WORKING.
AND COUNTRIES FROM ITALY TO
RUSSIA ACTUALLY ADVERTISE FOR
PUNJABI FARMERS.
WHEAT AND OTHER GRAINS GROW
HERE IN ABUNDANCE, AND, ALONG
WITH DAIRY PRODUCTS, THEY FORM
THE CORNERSTONE OF THE PUNJABI
DIET.

(music plays)
[motors buzzing]

(music plays)

Tony says WE'VE BEEN ON THE ROAD FOR
HOURS NOW, AND YES, I'M GETTING
HUNGRY.
IT'S A PERFECT OPPORTUNITY TO
SEE HOW THE PUNJABIS DO A
MOTORWAY PIT STOP.
OH!
AHH, OHH!
MY BACK!
WE'VE JUST GOT OFF THE GT ROAD,
A TRADITIONAL DHABA LUDHIANA.
A DHABA IS A MOTORWAY CAF
SERVICE STATION.
NOTHING LIKE THIS IS IN THE UK;
THEY'VE BEEN HERE FOREVER.
SIMPLE FOOD, COOKED FRESHLY.
THIS IS WOOD FIRE, THIS IS
TRADITIONAL...

Guram says YEAH, TRADITIONAL
FIRE.

Tony says CAN I HAVE A LOOK
ROUND?

Guram says YEAH, WHY NOT, COME,
COME, COME.
YEAH, YEAH.

Tony says WOW.
SO, I'VE BEEN IN INDIA FOR A
FEW DAYS AND THIS IS THE FIRST
TIME I'VE GOT UP CLOSE AND
PERSONAL TO A TANDOOR IN
PUNJAB.
AND THE HEAT'S 360 DEGREES
HEAT; IT'S CONCAVE AND YOU HAVE
TO FEEL THE HEAT COMING OFF
THAT.
IT'S TAKING SECONDS TO COOK,
AND THAT WAS ONE OF THE GREAT
THINGS WITH TANDOOR: A LITTLE
FUEL, ALL THE HEAT WAS
CONCENTRATED, AND THE FLAVOUR
YOU GET IS UNBELIEVABLE.
THIS IS QUINTESSENTIAL PUNJABI
AT HEART; THIS IS THE THING:
THE TANDOORI CHICKENS, THE
NAANS, THE BREADS, AND
EVERYTHING COMES OUT OF THIS
OVEN.
THIS IS WHAT PEOPLE KNOW OF
PUNJABI FOOD OUTSIDE AROUND THE
WORLD.
THIS IS IT.

Guram says NOW, WE'RE GOING TO
EAT.

Tony says THIS IS WHAT I'VE BEEN
WAITING FOR.
IN DHABAS LIKE THIS, THEY COOK
SIMPLE, SEASONAL FOOD.
THE TRADITIONAL DISH OF THE
PUNJAB IS ONLY AVAILABLE THIS
TIME OF YEAR, SO I'VE STRUCK IT
LUCKY.
GREEN MUSTARD TOP CURRY, A
PUNJABI-SIZED PORTION OF WHITE
BUFFALO BUTTER, AND CORN ROTIS
THIS IS HEARTY FARMING FOOD
THAT YOU WON'T FIND ON THE MENU
OUTSIDE OF PUNJAB.
THIS IS PUNJAB, THE CULTURE,
THE LIFESTYLE, EVERYTHING IN A
MOUTHFUL.
THAT IS LOVELY.

Guram says GREAT FOOD.

Tony says ANOTHER LOCAL
FAVOURITE IS BUFFALO MILK, AND
THIS LASSI IS AS FRESH AS YOU
CAN GET.
THEY HAVE REAL LIVE BUFFALOS
OUT BACK; HOW MAD IS THAT?

Guram says CHEERS.

Tony says CHEERS.

Guram says LASSI NICE?

Tony says LASSI'S VERY NICE.
IT'S SHARP AND IT'S CREAMY
THOUGH.
IF WE HAD THESE KIND OF PIT
STOPS ON THE M1A, BE A MUCH
BETTER PLACE.
THIS IS FANTASTIC.

(music plays)

Tony says ONLY ONE MORE STOP TONIGHT, AND
THAT'S TO SLEEP.
WELL, THAT'S THE PLAN.

(music plays)

Tony lies on his hotel bedroom.

He says ME AND GURNAM HAVE ROCKED UP IN
THE MIDDLE OF RURAL PUNJAB TO
ONE OF THESE WEDDING VENUES
THAT ARE SPROUTING UP ALL OVER
THE PLACE FOR A QUIET REST FOR
THE REST OF OUR JOURNEY.
AND, YES, YOU CAN HEAR IT,
BUNGARRA MUSIC; THERE'S A
WEDDING.
[heavy exhale]
TIRED.

(music plays)

Tony says IN MY SEARCH FOR AUTHENTIC
PUNJABI COOKING, I'VE TRIED THE
FOOD OF PILGRIMS, TRAVELLERS,
AND FAMILIES, BUT I'VE YET TO
FIND THE HIGH END OF BRITAIN'S
MOST POPULAR CUISINE - UNTIL
NOW.
I HAVE A DATE WITH ROYALTY!

(music plays)

Tony says HE MAHARAJAS ONCE RULED THE
STATELY KINGDOMS ACROSS INDIA.
AND IT TOOK SOME DOING, BUT I'M
OFF TO SEE HOW THE OTHER HALF
EAT.
I'M MEETING A MEMBER OF THE
PATIALA ROYAL FAMILY AT ONE OF
THEIR MODEST COUNTRY RETREATS.
AND THEY'VE GIVEN ME A CHANGING
ROOM THAT'S, OOH, JUST A TAD
SMALLER THAN MY HOUSE.
SO, WE'VE HIT THE MOTHER LODE.
WE'RE HERE TO TASTE THE
ULTIMATE IN PUNJABI FOOD, RICH,
DECADENT FOOD FROM THE
MAHARAJAS, AND I'M HERE WITH A
MEMBER OF THE PATIALA ROYAL
FAMILY.
BUT WHAT DO YOU WEAR WHEN YOU
GO AND SEE A MAHARAJA?
LOOK AT THAT!

He shows a fancy embroidered gold and orange jacket.

He says FINGERS CROSSED I'VE NOT PUT
TOO MUCH POUNDAGE ON.
HOLD ON.
[sharp inhale]
OH, YEAH.
I THOUGHT I'D BE NERVOUS, BUT
I'M NOT.
HE'S A FOOD LOVER, AND WE ALL
SPEAK THE SAME LANGUAGE: MMM,
AAH, LOVELY - YOU KNOW WHAT I
MEAN?
THAT'LL BE GREAT.
I'M NERVOUS COOKING WITH HIM
THOUGH.
TALKING FOOD'S ONE THING, BUT
COOKING WITH HIM...

THE ROYAL SECRETARY IS WAITING
TO TAKE ME TO THE RAJA SAAB
RANDHIR SINGH.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
HIS GRANDFATHER, THE MAHARAJA
BHUPINDER SINGH, WAS FAMOUS FOR
HIS EXTRAVAGANT FEASTS AND HIS
LOVE OF COOKING, BOTH
TRADITIONS THAT HAVE BEEN
PASSED DOWN THROUGH THE
GENERATIONS.
OH, I MIGHT HAVE OVERDONE IT
WITH THE JACKET.

(music plays)
I'M VERY HONOURED THAT YOU'RE
GOING TO SHOW ME, YOU'RE GOING
TO COOK WITH ME; I WAS VERY
SURPRISED.

Raja Saab Randhir is in his sixties, with gray hair in a turban and a beard. He wears a white shirt.

He says NO,
NO, I'LL COOK FOR YOU.
WE COOK REGULARLY WHENEVER THE
MEMBERS OF THE FAMILY ARE
TOGETHER.
WE COOK, AND, IN FACT, EVERYONE
COOKS IN THE EVENING.
IT'S MUCH BETTER WE ARE
SPENDING TIME THAN TALKING
BUSINESS OR TALKING POLITICS;
MUCH NICER.

Tony says AND SO, WHO TAKES
CONTROL, BECAUSE OBVIOUSLY YOU
STILL NEED ONE CHEF IN A
KITCHEN.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says NO,
NO, NO, EVERYONE COOKS THEIR
OWN DISH.
YOU HAVE THESE COAL FIRES LIT
SEPARATELY, AND EVERYONE HAS
THEIR OWN RECIPE, SO IT'S LAID
OUT.
AND SOMEBODY MAKES A RICE,
SOMEBODY MAKES A MUTTON,
SOMEBODY'S COOKING A CHICKEN, A
DHAL, OR A VEGETABLE.

Tony says SO, THERE'S NO
CONFLICT THERE, EVERYBODY JUST
DOES THEIR SPECIALITY.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says NO
CONFLICT.
THE RECIPES COME FROM THE
FAMILY.

Tony says OKAY.

(music plays)

Tony says I'M NOT SURE WHAT TO EXPECT AND
I STILL FEEL A BIT NERVOUS IN
SUCH ILLUSTRIOUS COMPANY.
BUT, PHEW, IT TURNS OUT THE
ROYALS COOK ON THE SAME
TRADITIONAL STOVES THAT I'VE
SEEN ALL OVER PUNJAB.
BUT THEY DO HAVE A BONUS OF
SOME MAN SERVANTS TO LEND A
HAND.
THIS IS WHAT I CALL A KITCHEN,
AND THE VIEWS AND IT'S
BEAUTIFUL, BUT A BIT HOT FOR
ME, I THINK.

The kitchen is on a terrace.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says BIT
HOT.
[laughing]

Tony says I AM YOUR COMMIS CHEF;
IF YOU TELL ME WHAT TO DO, I
SHALL...

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says
YES, CERTAINLY.

Tony says WE'RE COOKING A RICH
CHICKEN AND APRICOT DISH THAT'S
A FAVOURITE IN THE PATIALA
PALACE.
NO SURPRISE AT THE FIRST
INGREDIENT, GHEE.
THIS ROYAL HOUSEHOLD GETS
THROUGH 70 KILOS OF GHEE A
MONTH, COMPARED WITH MOST
FAMILIES WHO USE AROUND TWO.
WE ADD BLACK PEPPERCORNS,
CLOVES.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says AND
WE USE A BIT OF CARDAMOM.

Tony says AND ONIONS.
SO, JUST GENTLY FRYING IT WITH
THE SPICES TO GET THAT GOLDEN
BROWN, TO ADD FLAVOUR TO THE
DISH AT EACH STEP.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says
THIS IS GARLIC PASTE AND GINGER
PASTE.

Tony says GARLIC AND GINGER
PASTE, OKAY.
EVEN THE ROYALS HAVE THE BASIC
PUNJABI SPICE BOX.
OKAY, THE CHILLIES.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says AND
THIS IS RED CHILLI COLOUR.

Tony says JUST GROUND CORIANDER.
OR THE SIMPLE USE OF SPICES TO
BRING OUT THE BEST IN THE
FLAVOUR, AND THAT'S WHAT THEY
HAVE TO DO.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says AND
THEY DO FLAVOUR IT; FOR EVERY
DISH, YOU HAVE A DIFFERENT
SPICE.

Tony says ALL THE MEN HELPING IN
DOING THEIR DISHES, WAS THERE
EVER COMPETITIONS WHO MAKES THE
BEST DISH?

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says I
DON'T THINK SO.

Tony says I WON'T BE GETTING ANY
ROYAL GOSSIP THEN, BUT I WILL
BE GETTING SOME ROYAL TIPS.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says YOU
SEE, WHEN THE BUBBLES BECOME
CLEAR, YOU KNOW THAT THE MASALA
HAS BEEN COOKED.

Tony says AFTER ALL OF THE
VEGETARIAN DISHES I'VE TRIED,
THIS ALREADY FEELS MORE
EXTRAVAGANT.
AND IF YOU'RE GOING TO EAT MEAT
IN PUNJAB, IT'S USUALLY
CHICKEN.
THE SMELL IS JUST PHENOMENAL.
THE MAHARAJAS' RECIPES HAVE
BEEN INFLUENCED BY THEIR LINKS
WITH NEIGHBOURING ROYAL COURTS.
ONCE THE CHICKEN HAS SIMMERED,
WE ADD THE DRIED APRICOTS,
WHICH GIVE IT A SWEET TASTE,
LIKE THE CURRIES OF AFGHANISTAN
TO THE NORTH.
BECAUSE THE APRICOTS HAVE BEEN
SOAKED, THEY JUST NEED A COUPLE
OF MINUTES TO COOK THROUGH, AND
ALL THE FLAVOURS WILL MARRY
TOGETHER AND THAT'S IT.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says
THAT'S IT.

(music plays)

Tony says THE PATIALA ROYALS
WERE FAMOUS FOR THEIR LAVISH
HOSPITALITY.
AND IN THE 1930s, AT THE HEIGHT
OF THEIR POWER AND WEALTH, THIS
ROYAL HOUSEHOLD WOULD FEED UP
TO 3,500 PEOPLE A DAY.
TODAY'S MENU INCLUDES TWO TYPES
OF DHAL, A RICH MARINATED LAMB
AND YOGURT, A CREAMY CHICKEN
PILAU DISH, SPICY CAULIFLOWER,
AND OUR SWEET CHICKEN AND
APRICOTS.

They sit at a lavishly set table.

(music plays)

Tony says THE APRICOTS AND THE CHICKEN,
IT'S THAT SURPRISE OF SHARP
SWEETNESS.
DOES IT REMIND YOU OF YOUR
CHILDHOOD, AND THE FEASTS THAT
YOU USED TO HAVE, WHEN YOU USED
TO GET TOGETHER?

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says THE
FOOD IS THE SAME; THE DISHES
WERE MANY MORE.

Tony says MANY MORE?

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says
MANY MORE DISHES.
THEY CAME IN A BIG SILVER
SALVER, AND THERE WERE THESE
BOWLS LIKE THIS, AND THEY HAD
51 DISHES, INCLUDING THE RICE,
AT LEAST TWO PILAUS.
SO, A LOT OF FOOD WAS MADE
THEN.

Tony says AND YOUR GRANDFATHER
WAS A CHARACTER?

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says HE
HAD 42 ROLLS-ROYCES IN THE
GARAGE AT ONE TIME.

Tony says 42!

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says HE
WAS VERY FOND OF DOGS AS WELL.
WE HAD KENNELS IN PATIALA WHICH
HAD 1,000 DOGS IN THEM.

Tony says 1,000 DOGS.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says HE
HAD A ROLLS-ROYCE FOR HIS
HUNTING, SO HE USED TO CARRY
HIS DOGS IN THAT ROLLS-ROYCE AT
THE BACK.
GET SOME MORE, YOU'VE -

Tony says NO, NO, HONESTLY, I'M -
THIS IS FABULOUS.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says
THIS IS LIGHT; YOU WON'T HAVE
TO WORRY ABOUT...

Tony says NO, NO, NO, NO.
OH, GO ON THEN.
WHEN IN ROME.
THESE DAYS, MANY MAHARAJAS HAVE
SWAPPED THEIR PALACES FOR
POLITICS AND BUSINESS, BUT THEY
STILL KNOW HOW TO PUT ON A
CRACKING SPREAD, AND I'M GLAD
THE RECIPES HAVE SURVIVED.
THE DISHES HAVE BEEN WONDERFUL:
VERY SUBTLE, DELICATELY
FLAVOURED, YOU CAN TASTE ALL
THE INGREDIENTS.
IT WAS WONDERFUL.
RAJA SAAB, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

Raja Saab Randhir Singh says
HAPPY THAT YOU ENJOYED IT.

Tony says OKAY, THANK YOU, BYE.
BYE.

He gets in a car.

He says DELHI!

(music plays)

Tony says WITH A FULL BELLY AND A
SLIGHTLY TIGHTER JACKET...
THE RICH FOOD OF THE MAHARAJAS
HAS DEFINITELY LIVED UP TO MY
EXPECTATION.
BUT, BACK ON THE GRAND TRUNK
ROAD, I'M READY FOR THE LAST
LEG OF THE JOURNEY.
WE'RE IN DELHI, BABY!
THE CAPITAL OF INDIA,
POPULATION 22 MILLION.
AS I ENTER THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE
CITY, I CAN'T HELP BUT NOTICE
HEALTH AND FITNESS CLUBS
EVERYWHERE.
A RICH DIET AND CHANGING
LIFESTYLES HAVE MADE INDIA THE
TYPE 2 DIABETES CAPITAL OF THE
WORLD.

Tony stops by a gym called "M.R Fitness Zone."

He says MAYBE IT'S A SIGN?
WISH ME LUCK.
SO, AFTER A WEEK OF INDULGING
MYSELF, AND ESPECIALLY WITH THE
MAHARAJA, THAT FANTASTIC FOOD,
THE JACKET'S FEELING A BIT
TIGHT.
SO, I THOUGHT THE LATEST CRAZE,
BOLLY SWEAT: BIT OF FITNESS, A
BIT OF DANCE.
I'M WATCHING THEM AND I'M
GETTING A BIT WORRIED.
IT'S MORE THAN MY SCREWING THE
LIGHT BULBS, BIG PRESENT, SMALL
PRESENT, FISH, ALL THAT.
IT'S A BIT TECHNICAL.
HOW ARE YOU?

Anant is in his late twenties, clean-shaven and with short wavy brown hair. He wears jeans and a plaid shirt.

Anant says I'M ANANT; I'M THE
DIRECTOR OF DELHI DANCE
ACADEMY.

Tony says EXCELLENT, I'M A BIT
WORRIED IN CASE YOU KILL ME
DANCING.

Anant says YEAH, I MEAN, JUST
NOT WORRY.
IT'S A REALLY CHILLED OUT
BOLLYWOOD DANCE CLASS.

Tony says IS THIS A BIT CRAZE
NOW?
IS BOLLY SWEAT THE THING?

Anant says WHAT HAPPENS IN INDIA
IS BECAUSE BOLLYWOOD MUSIC IS
SO POPULAR, PEOPLE WANT TO DO
THE SAME THING ON BOLLYWOOD
SONGS.
AND THAT'S WHAT WE ARE DOING
HERE.

Tony says BUT WHY IS THERE SUCH
A BIG INCREASE IN THESE KINDS
OF CLASSES, BECAUSE DRIVING
HERE I'VE SEEN FITNESS SPAS AND
HEALTH CLUBS AND EVERYTHING
LIKE THAT?

Anant says THERE'S A LOT OF
GENERAL INFLUENCE OF THE
WESTERN CULTURE COMING IN.
OBVIOUSLY PEOPLE ARE GETTING
MORE AWARE, SO THERE ARE PEOPLE
WORKING IN MULTINATIONAL
COMPANIES THESE DAYS.
THERE ARE GYMS IN THE
COMPANIES; THERE ARE SWIMMING
POOLS AND STUFF LIKE THAT.
THESE COMPANIES HAVE A CULTURE
OF FITNESS; YOU NEED TO MAKE
THEM A REGULAR HABIT FOR
YOURSELF.

Tony says GENTLY, GENTLY FOR ME.

Anant says WE'RE GOING TO TAKE
IT SLOW.
IT'S A GROUP CLASS SO THERE'LL
BE OTHER PEOPLE DOING IT WITH
YOU.

Tony says RIGHT, LET'S GO.

Anant says GREAT, COME.
[Bollywood music]

Tony joins one of the classes.

Tony says THE NATION'S
WAISTLINES MIGHT BE GROWING,
BUT SO IS ITS FITNESS INDUSTRY,
NOW WORTH 1 BILLION DOLLARS A YEAR!
[Bollywood music]
AS EVER IN INDIA, THE PEOPLE
SEEM TO KEEP WHAT THEY LOVE AND
EMBRACE WHAT'S NEW.
[Bollywood music]
THAT'S ALL RIGHT, THAT WAS ALL
RIGHT.
[Bollywood music]
TURNS OUT I'M A NATURAL, OR
MAYBE THESE BOLLYWOOD MOVES ARE
JUST SECOND NATURE.
[Bollywood music]
[clapping]
BOLLY SWEAT, FANTASTIC, I'VE
LOST TWO STONE.
I'M OFF FOR A BURGER.
WHILE I WAIT FOR MY HEART RATE
TO RECOVER, I WANT TO FIND OUT
FROM MY FELLOW DANCERS WHY THIS
IS SO POPULAR.

A woman in her twenties says I GUESS IT’S BECAUSE OF THE DATING SCENE THAT HAS JUST COME UP IN INDIA.

Tony says THIS IS NOT ARRANGED
MARRIAGES ANYMORE.

A man in his thirties says YOU PREFER TO BE ON DISPLAY FOR A LONGER TIME BEFORE YOU GET CAPTURED.

The woman says NOW WE HAVE MORE LOVE MARRIAGES THAN ARRANGED MARRIAGES THESE DAYS. I THINK LOVE MARRIAGES ARE PICKING UP MORE.

Tony says IS THAT ONE OF THE
CRITERIA THAT THEY GIVE: I WANT
SIZE ZERO?

The woman says EVERY GUY WANTS A BEAUTIFUL, SLIM AND TRIM, GOOD WIFE AND EVERY GIRL WOULD LIKE A HUNK WITH A SIX PACK.

(music plays)

Tony says BUT THE WAY TO THIS
HUNK'S HEART IS STILL FOOD.
SO, WHAT'S HOT IN DELHI NOW?

The man says MOMOS.

Tony says WHAT'S MOMOS?

The woman says MOMOS ARE, I THINK, INDIAN VERSIONS OF CHINESE DUMPLINGS OR TIBETAN FOOD.

Tony says READY TO GO?

The woman says YES.

Tony says COME ON, EXCELLENT.

(music plays)

Tony heads to the streets with both.

Tony says THE BOLLY SWEATERS ARE TAKING
ME TO THEIR REGULAR MOMO STAND
AROUND THE CORNER.
I'LL LET YOU.
THIS IS THE FIRST TIME I'VE HAD
FOOD HERE THAT ISN'T THE
TRADITIONAL PUNJABI FLAVOURS
THAT I GREW UP WITH.
VEGETARIAN.
SO, THAT'S THE MOMO.
AND THAT'S COOKED IN A TANDOOR?

The woman says THIS WILL BE VERY HOT.

The man says IT’S LIKE A PANDORA’S BOX. TELL US WHAT IT’S MADE OF.

Tony says YOU'VE GOT THIS
FANTASTIC LIGHT DOUGH, LIKE DIM
SUM.
THE FILLING, GARLIC GINGER
CHILLI, ONION, SPICES, AND THEN
YOU'VE GOT THIS FANTASTIC
CHUTNEY, VINEGAR AND CHILLI,
SIMPLE TWO INGREDIENTS.
IT'S HOT, BUT THEN IT DOESN'T
DETRACT FROM THE FLAVOUR OF THE
MOMO.
THE PUNJABIS CAME AFTER
PARTITION, CHANGED THE FOOD
SCENE COMPLETELY.
AND NOW THE THINGS LIKE THE
MOMOS, THAT'S TIBETAN, AND WE
MADE OUR OWN.
IT'S AMAZING HOW EVERYTHING
KEEPS REINVENTING ITSELF.
THESE YOUNG DELHI-ITES HAVE GOT
IT SORTED: WORK HARD, PLAY
HARD.
AFTER A BOLLYWOOD SWEAT CLASS,
THEY'RE OUT FOR THE BEST FOOD
THAT'S ON THE STREET, AND IT
JUST SHOWS YOU THE FACE OF
DELHI FOOD KEEPS CHANGING:
REFUGEES FROM TIBET, FROM
AFGHANISTAN BRINGING THEIR FOOD
IN AND CHANGING THE CULTURE OF
FOOD SLIGHTLY AGAIN.
IT'S OBVIOUSLY GOING TO KEEP
EVOLVING; I THINK THAT'S WHAT'S
WONDERFUL ABOUT FOOD IN INDIA.
THE TRADITIONS ARE GOING TO
STAY THE SAME, BUT THEY'VE GOT
TWEAKS FROM WHATEVER COMES IN.

(music plays)

Tony says IT'S MY LAST DAY AND I'M
FINALLY IN THE HEART OF THE
CAPITAL.
TODAY, I WILL BE REUNITED WITH
THE SIDE OF MY FAMILY WHO
STAYED IN DELHI AFTER
TRAVELLING 300 MILES FROM
AMRITSAR, AS REFUGEES BACK IN
1947.
FROM WHAT I KNOW, TEMPORARY
CAMPS WERE SET UP ALL OVER THE
CITY TO SHELTER THE MILLIONS OF
DISPLACED PEOPLE, AND MY
GREAT-GRANDPARENTS ENDED UP
HERE AT THE RED FORT.

Tony stands in front of a large fort with terracotta walls.

(music plays)

Tony says THIS WAS ONE OF THE LARGEST
REFUGEE CAMPS JUST AFTER
PARTITION, WITH 13 MILLION
PEOPLE MOVED OVER AN ARBITRARY
LINE DRAWN ON A MAP.
MY GREAT-GRANDPARENTS DONE THAT
JOURNEY, I CAN'T EVEN IMAGINE
WHAT HARDSHIPS THEY WENT
THROUGH.
WE CAME DOWN IN FUN, IN LUXURY,
STOPPING TO HAVE FOOD.
THEY DIDN'T EVEN KNOW WHEN
THEIR NEXT MEAL WAS COME, OR
WHETHER THEY'D MAKE IT.
IMAGINE THIS FULL OF PEOPLE,
TENTS, BUT YOU'RE ON THE ROAD
FOR WEEKS TO GET HERE AND THEN
YOU'RE THROWN INTO THIS.
AND THAT'S FOR MILLIONS OF
PEOPLE; WE WERE JUST ONE
FAMILY, AND THAT DISPERSED THE
SIKHS THROUGHOUT THE WORLD.
BUT A MILLION PEOPLE DYING IN
THAT TIME, I CAN'T GET MY HEAD
ROUND IT.
NO, I CAN'T EVEN GET MY -
THERE'S ONLY FIVE MILLION
PEOPLE IN SCOTLAND, THE WHOLE
OF SCOTLAND.
BUT THERE'S THINGS TO FIND OUT
NOW SO I CAN TELL MY KIDS.
I NEED TO SPEAK TO SOMEBODY WHO
ACTUALLY LIVED THROUGH
PARTITION.
I'M GOING TO SEE MY GREAT-UNCLE
AT THE FAMILY HOME THAT SITS ON
THE SAME PLOT MY
GREAT-GRANDPARENTS WERE GIVEN
60 YEARS AGO.
THERE YOU GO, THAT'S THE HOUSE.
GREAT-GRANDDAD'S NAME, MY
GRANDDAD'S NAME, MY GRANNY'S
NAME.
IT'S SO HARD TO IMAGINE THAT
WHEN THEY CAME HERE THIS WAS
NOTHING; THIS WAS ALL FARMLAND,
ALL EVERYWHERE.
THIS WAS THE BLOCKS GOING
BACKWARDS, 15 FOOT BY 60 FOOT.
THAT WAS IT; THAT'S WHAT THEY
WERE GIVEN.
AND IT SHOWS THE HEART OF THE
PUNJABI SPIRIT.
LOOK WHAT THEY'VE BUILT ROUND,
LOOK AT THE HOUSE.
THEY STAYED, THEY PROSPERED,
THEY TRAVELLED THE WORLD.
I'M JUST GLAD TO BE HOME.
MY PARENTS HAVE FLOWN OVER FROM
SCOTLAND FOR THEIR REGULAR
VISIT.
[laughing]

Tony’s mom opens the door of the building.

Tony says IT FEELS GOOD TO SEE MY MUM AND
MY DAD.
THEY'VE ARRANGED FOR ME TO
SPEND TIME WITH MY 89-YEAR-OLD
GREAT-UNCLE AMMAR.
I'VE ONLY MET HIM ONCE, AND
I'VE NEVER SPOKEN TO HIM ABOUT
OUR FAMILY HISTORY OR HIS OWN
EXPERIENCES.
[speaking local language]

Tony hugs his parents and uncle.

Tony says HOW LONG WERE YOU WHEN YOU CAME FROM AMRITSAR TO DELHI AFTER PARTITION?

His uncle has white hair in an orange turban and a beard. He wears white trousers and a white tunic.

Tony says HE GOT TO THE CAMPS
AROUND 13 OR 14; HE WAS THERE
FOR SIX YEARS, FORMATIVE YEARS,
TILL HE WAS 20.
I CAN'T EVEN IMAGINE WHAT IT
WAS LIKE.
[speaking local language]
SO, WHEN THEY WERE COMING DOWN,
THERE WAS SO MUCH DANGER THERE.
THIS WAS A PARTITION ON
RELIGIOUS GROUNDS, WHICH, YOU
GOT MUSLIMS WERE ATTACKING THE
SIKHS; ON THE WAY UP, THE
HINDUS WERE ATTACKING THE
MUSLIMS.
IT WAS HORRENDOUSLY SAD, YOU
SEE: GUNS, BOMBS GOING OFF AND
EVERYTHING.
[speaking local language]
I ASKED MY GREAT-GRAND-UNCLE
ABOUT MY GRANDDAD, HOW HE GOT
TO THE UK.
IT WAS LIKE A LOT OF PUNJABIS,
AT THE TIME, THEY WENT TO FIND
WORK AND THEIR PLANS WERE TO
GO, MAKE A LITTLE BIT OF MONEY,
AND COME BACK TO THEIR HOMES
HERE.
BUT UNFORTUNATELY, HE DIED IN A
CAR ACCIDENT, AND THAT'S HOW MY
FAMILY, MY GRANDDAD, MY GRANNY,
AND EVERYBODY STAYED UP IN
SCOTLAND.
THEY ENDED UP THERE, ENDED
PUTTING THEIR ROOTS DOWN THERE.
[speaking local language]
I ASKED MY GREAT-GRAND-UNCLE
WHAT HE FEELS BECAUSE WE'RE IN
SCOTLAND; THERE'S OTHER PEOPLE
ROUND PARTS OF THE WORLD AND
EVERYTHING.
HE SAYS IT'S GREAT, IT'S GOD'S
WILL, IT'S AMAZING, AND HE SAYS
IT DOESN'T MATTER BECAUSE WE'RE
JUST ONE BLOOD AND THAT'S IT.

Tony hugs him and says I’M REALLY GLAD TO HAVE MET YOU.

His uncle says YOU ARE MY BLOOD. YOU CAME, WE TALKED, WE ARE ONE BLOOD.

Tony wipes off his tears.

(music plays)

Tony says IT'S BEEN YEARS SINCE
WE MET, BUT THEN, EVEN THEN,
YOU DIDN'T ASK THESE QUESTIONS
BECAUSE WHEN YOU'RE YOUNG YOU
THINK YOU'VE GOT ALL THE TIME
IN THE WORLD AND EVERYBODY'S
GOING TO BE THERE AND YOU KNOW
IT ALL.
IT'S NOT TRUE.

He shares food with children.

(music plays)

Tony says I'M REALIZING MY FAMILY BONDS,
LIKE MY INDIAN TRADITIONS, ARE
STRONG, AND THAT GOOD FOOD
BRINGS PEOPLE TOGETHER.
MY MUM HAS COOKED UP A FEAST,
AND THIS JOURNEY HAS SHOWN ME
THAT HER PUNJABI COOKING IS THE
REAL DEAL.
IS THAT NICE?

A kid says YEAH.

(music plays)

Tony says I CAME TO FIND OUT IF
I COULD FIT IN, AND I CAN.
I CAN HAVE ONE FOOT IN PUNJAB
AND ONE FOOT IN SCOTLAND, AND I
AM PROUD TO HAVE TWO STRONG,
INDEPENDENT HERITAGES THAT I
CAN CALL MY OWN.

I'M SO FORTUNATE.
I DIDN'T KNOW MORE THAN HALF
THE STUFF THAT I'VE BEEN
DISCOVERING COMING DOWN THE
SAME ROAD AS MY
GREAT-GREAT-GRANDPARENTS AS
REFUGEES.
AND IT'S MY DUTY TO TELL MY
KIDS, AND I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE
THEM TO TELL THEM.

(music plays)

A caption reads "Next time…."

John Torode says IT'S A BLOKE'S
DREAM, THIS IS.

The narrator says IN ARGENTINA,
MASTERCHEF JUDGE JOHN TORODE
LEARNS THE SECRETS OF COOKING
WITH FIRE.

John takes some red embers from a barbecue.

John Torode says WOW, LOOK AT
THAT.

The narrator says AND SEARCHES FOR
THE BEST PIECE OF STEAK IN THE
WORLD.

John Torode says WHAT A WAY TO
EAT, WHAT A WAY TO COOK, WHAT A
WAY TO LIVE.

(music plays)
[fireworks popping]

Music plays as the end credits roll.

Production manager, Amanda Brown.

Executive producer, Gill Tierney.

Director, Tara Jang.

Series producers, Helen Simpson and Katy Fryer.

BBC Features Production. Bristol.

Copyright. BBC 2015.

Distributed by DCD Right.