Video Transcript

Music plays as fast clips show images from around the world.

The BBC logo appears on screen.

The narrator says SIX COOKS...
[laughter]
SIX COUNTRIES, SIX INCREDIBLE
JOURNEYS.

Monica Galetti raises her fist and says WOO!

Monica is in her forties, with short brown hair. She wears a lilac tank top, a pendant necklace and an army green cap.

Dave Myers sits as many children play with his hair.

He says AH!

Dave is in his fifties, with long wavy graying hair and a beard. He wears glasses and a floral shirt.

The narrator says STEPPING OUTSIDE
THEIR COMFORT ZONES.

A caption reads “Monica Galetti. France”

Monica says IT'S NOT FOR
THE FAINT HEARTED, FOR SURE.

The narrator says OUR COOKS WILL
TRAVEL FAR AND WIDE...

John Torode drives a car. He’s in his fifties, clean-shaven and with short straight gray hair. He wears a blue shirt.

He says ROUTE 7 ALL
THE WAY.

The narrator says TO FIND SOME OF
THE MOST EXCITING FOOD ON THE
PLANET.

The caption changes to “Tony Singh. India”

Tony is in his late forties, with brown hair in a red turban and a thick beard. He wears a floral shirt.

He says IF YOU'RE BACK
IN THE UK, YOU GOT TANDOORI
CHICKEN, NOTHING LIKE THIS.

The caption changes to “Dave Myers. Egypt”


Dave says IT'S BEAUTIFUL.
THIS IS THE BEST FOOD I'VE HAD
IN EGYPT.
IT'S PURE, IT'S GOT HERITAGE,
IT'S GOT LOVE IN IT, YOU KNOW.

The narrator says THEY'LL GO OFF
THE BEATEN TRACK.

Rick Stein is at the store, in the meat section. He’s in his sixties, balding and clean-shaven. He wears a lilac shirt.

Rick says CROCODILE,
CROCODILE SAUSAGES.

The narrator says MEETING
EXTRAORDINARY PEOPLE, EXPLORING
WAYS OF LIFE UNCHANGED FOR
CENTURIES.

The caption changes to “Rachel Khoo. Malaysia”

Rachel is in her twenties, with long straight brown hair in a braid.

She says NO ELECTRIC
BLENDERS IN THE JUNGLE.
HAVE TO DO EVERYTHING BY HAND.

She mashes some peppers with a rock.

Tony says TAKE YOUR LIFE
INTO YOUR OWN HANDS.
WE'RE ON THE ROAD NOW.

The narrator says AS THEY TRAVEL,
THEY'LL SEE HOW THE LANGUAGE
OF FOOD TRANSCENDS CULTURAL
DIFFERENCES.

Dave says I'VE NEVER HUFFED
ON A CHEESE BEFORE.

The narrator says AND A WORLD AWAY
FROM HOME.

Rick sits by a beach.

Rick says THIS IS WHY I
LOVE AUSTRALIA.

At a food cart, chef 1 says THERE'S NO EXCUSE
FOR A BAD PIE IN AUSTRALIA.

Chef 2 says NO.

The caption changes to “Rick Stein. Australia”

Rick says THIS IS THE
BEGINNING, WHERE DO WE END?

The narrator says THEY'LL LEARN
LESSONS THAT COULD CHANGE THE
WAY WE COOK FOREVER.

The caption changes to “John Torode. Argentina”

John says I'VE BEEN
COOKING A BARBECUE WRONGLY ALL
MY LIFE.
WOW.

Music plays. The title “A cook abroad” appears against an image of the pyramids.

The narrator says THIS TIME, HAIRY
BIKER DAVE MYERS IS
TRAVELLING TO ONE OF THE
WORLD'S MOST ANCIENT CULTURES.

Dave says THE EXCITING
TRUTH IS THAT EGYPTIAN FOOD IS
THE OLDEST IN THE WORLD, AND
THAT'S WHAT I'M HERE TO FIND.

The narrator says VENTURING UP THE
NILE TO DISCOVER WHERE BAKING
BEGAN.

Dave says I FEEL LIKE I'M
INDIANA JONES AND THE LOST
LOAF.

The narrator says HE'LL FIND
HOSPITALITY HE'LL NEVER FORGET.

Dave says I LOVE EGYPT!

The narrator says AND GO IN SEARCH
OF THE OLDEST RECIPES IN THE
WORLD.

Dave says I COULD SIT
THERE AND EAT THE LOT.
[laughter]
[birds squawking]

The caption changes to “Dave Myers. Egypt”

The caption changes to “Barrow in Furness”

Dave sits in a kitchen with his friend.

Dave says I'VE TRAVELLED THE
WORLD WITH MY BEST MATE, SI
KING, BUT HE'S NOT BEEN WELL,
THE POOR SAUSAGE.
ALTHOUGH HE'S ON THE MEND,
HE'S NOT READY FOR A BIG TRIP
LIKE THIS.
SO FOR THE FIRST TIME, I'M
GOING AWAY WITHOUT HIM.
I'M GONNA MISS YA.

Si King is in his fifties, with long curly gray hair and a beard. He wears a denim shirt and a blue vest.

Si says I'M GOING TO MISS
YOU AND ALL.

Dave says BECAUSE WE ALWAYS
LOOK OUT FOR EACH OTHER, DON'T
WE?

Si says WELL, YEAH.
LOOK, JUST BE SAFE, WILL YOU?
THAT'S THE MAIN THING.

Dave says AS A LITTLE TREAT,
I'M COOKING SI ONE OF THE
EGYPTIAN DISHES THAT HE'LL BE
MISSING.
IT'S ONE OF OUR FAVOURITES.
CORIANDER, SALT, BAKING POWDER
BIT OF BOUNCE.

He puts the ingredients in a blender vase.

Si says OH, NICE.
[blender humming]

Dave says IT'S BEGINNING TO
LOOK A BIT LIKE FALAFEL.
WHAT YOU DOING?

Si says I'M MAKING A LIST.

Dave says WHAT FOR?

Si says ME PRESENTS.

Dave says OH, NO.

Si says OH, GO ON.

Dave says FOR WHAT?

Si says WELL, I'VE GOT A
CAMEL.

Dave says YOU GIVE ME THE
HUMP, YOU DO.
[laughter]

Si says A DRUM.

Dave says YEAH, RIGHT.

Dave balls the mix and fries them.

[sizzling]

Si says HOW THEY DOING?

Dave says THEY'RE FALLING
APART LIKE THEY DID LAST TIME.
I'VE GOT A PAN OF BOMBAY MIX.
THEY'VE DISINTEGRATED.
[laughter]
HOW MANY TIMES HAVE WE DONE
THIS?
OKAY, SO IF NOTHING ELSE COMES
OUT OF THIS TRIP TO EGYPT, I
AM GOING TO LEARN HOW TO
MAKE PERFECT FALAFEL.
(music plays)

A world map appears on screen with a circle around Egypt.

Dave says MY TRIP WILL TAKE ME TO
THE CROSSROADS OF AFRICA, ASIA
AND EUROPE.
I'M STARTING IN EGYPT'S BEATING
HEART, ONE OF THE WORLD'S
GREATEST CITIES -- CAIRO.
(music plays)

Fast clips show images of everyday life in Cairo.

Dave says I'M IN EGYPT, AND DO YOU KNOW
WHAT?
I LOVE IT.
I LOVE THE BUSTLE, ALL THOSE
NOOKS AND CRANNIES AND BACK
STREETS.
OH, LOOK AT THAT.
I LOVE MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD AND
I'VE TRAVELLED PRETTY WIDELY IN
THIS PART OF THE WORLD, BUT YOU
CAN'T CLAIM TO HAVE THE FULL
PICTURE UNTIL YOU COME HERE.
FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS,
MERCHANTS TRAVELLING THE SPICE
ROUTE HAVE SET OUT THEIR STALLS
ON CAIRO'S STREETS, AND THIS IS
WHERE THE CLASSIC FLAVOURS OF
MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE FIRST
CAME TOGETHER.
THERE HAS GOT TO BE SOME
AMAZING FOOD HERE AND YET
SOMEHOW, IT HASN'T MADE IT, YOU
KNOW, ONTO OUR CULINARY PSYCHE.
WHERE WOULD ONE GO FOR AN
EGYPTIAN?
IN FACT, CAN YOU NAME ME ONE
EGYPTIAN DISH?
I'VE BEEN FASCINATED BY TALES
OF ANCIENT EGYPT SINCE I WAS A
BOY, BUT THAT WAS ALL TOMBS AND
MUMMIES.
NOW, I WANT TO GET TO KNOW THE
FOOD.
AS ONE OF THE GREATEST
CIVILIZATIONS EVER KNOWN,
EGYPT'S INFLUENCE SPREAD WAY
BEYOND ITS SHORES, SO I'M
HOPING TO TRACK DOWN NOT ONLY
SOME ANCIENT RECIPES BUT THE
ORIGINS OF DISHES WE KNOW AND
LOVE BACK HOME.
NOW, I'VE READ IF YOU WANT TO
FIND THE BEST FOOD IN CAIRO,
YOU HAVE TO LOOK ON THE STREET.
AND TO BREAKFAST LIKE AN
EGYPTIAN, THAT MEANS FUUL.

He approaches a man eating on the street.

Dave says THAT LOOKS GOOD.
IS IT FUUL?
FUUL, WHOA.
WELL, I'VE FOUND THE FUUL, YOU
KNOW, AND IT'S LIKE BEANS FOR
BREAKFAST.
BUT BEANS ARE AN EGYPTIAN
STAPLE, YOU KNOW, I MEAN THE
AVERAGE EGYPTIAN'S ABOUT 1500
QUID A YEAR, AND BEANS ARE
REALLY IMPORTANT, BUT YOU KNOW,
THEY GIVE YOU A BIT OF GET UP
AND GO.
IT'S THAT OLD PROVERB, A
MILLION EGYPTIANS EVERY DAY,
PICK UP A PLATE OF BEANS AND
SAY, BEANS MEANS FUUL.
[dishes clattering]
OH, HE'S GOT A SALAD.
HELLO.

The cook says HELLO.

Dave says CAN I HAVE SOME FUUL?

The cook says FUUL.

Dave says FUUL?
WITH TAHINI?

The cook says WITH TAHINI, NO.

The cooks speaks his native language.

The says DO YOU WANT IT WITH SOME CHILLI?

Dave says CHILLI?

The cook says in Italian DO YOU SPEAK ITALIAN?

Dave says A LITTLE.

The cook says A LITTLE?

Dave says A LITTLE ITALIAN.

Dave says I WANT THE FULL FUUL
EXPERIENCE.

The cook says OIL.

Dave says HOT.
SI.
I MEAN, GRACIAS.
[laughter]
IT'S BONKERS.
I END UP TRYING TO SPEAK
ITALIAN, AND I CAN'T SPEAK
ITALIAN.
ON A FOOD STALL IN EGYPT, WHEN
I COME FOR ME MORNING BEANS FOR
BREAKFAST.
IT'S BRILLIANT.
OLIO, OLIO, CALDE.
OOH, I EVEN GOT A SWEETIE.
I'M UP FOR ME PUDDING.
IT CERTAINLY BEATS GOING DOWN
THE CAFE AT HOME, YOU KNOW,
AND HAVING ME BEANS ON TOAST.
[general chatter]

Dave says SO THAT'S ME FUUL.
IS THAT MY BREAD?

The cook says BREAD?

Dave says THANK YOU.

Dave says AH, SMASHING.
AH.

Dave says PROPER EGYPTIAN
BREAKFAST, LOOK AT THAT BREAD.
NOW, WHAT'S THIS TASTE LIKE?
MMM.
IT'S GOOD.
IT'S VERY GOOD, ISN'T IT?

A man next to him says REALLY GOOD.

Dave says YEAH.
IT'S GREAT.
IT'S SPICY, IT'S TASTY, IT'S
BEANS THAT ARE SOAKED AND THEN
THEY'RE BOILED IN THE MORNING
WITH SOME SPICES, AND IT'S LIKE
A BEAN PORRIDGE.
THEN I'VE GOT THIS SALAD.
I'VE GOT SOME LEMON, I'VE GOT
SOME VERY, VERY LIGHT PICKLES.
THERE I'VE GOT THE AUBERGINE.
OOH, THAT'S HOT.
THIS WILL GIVE ME TERRIBLE
WIND.
BEANS ARE A CORNERSTONE OF
EGYPTIAN CUISINE, BUT A
MUST-HAVE AT BREAKFAST, LUNCH
AND DINNER IS BREAD.
GRAZIE.
[laughter]
(music plays)

Dave says I KNOW A FAIR BIT ABOUT BAKING
BREAD, BUT NO ONE KNOWS MORE
THAN THE EGYPTIANS.
THEIR WORD FOR BREAD 'AISH'
MEANS LIFE.
(music plays)
YOU COULD SMELL THIS BREAD ALL
THE WAY FROM THE OTHER SIDE
OF CAIRO.
Moustafa is in his late forties, bald and with an anchor beard. He wears jeans and a white shirt.

Moustafa says YES.
IT'S REALLY GOOD BREAD, ISN'T
IT?

Dave says YEAH.
MOUSTAFA IS A CAIRO FOODIE AND
CHEF WHO WANTS TO SHOW ME HOW
IMPORTANT BREAD IS TO THE
PEOPLE HERE.
SO IS THIS EVERYDAY EGYPTIAN
BREAD?

Moustafa says WE EAT, LIKE, FIVE
LOAVES OF THAT BREAD EVERY DAY,
SO IT'S OUR MAIN STABLE DIET.

Dave says AND WHAT'S IT CALLED?

Moustafa says IT CALLED BALADI
BREAD.
BALADI MEANS LOCAL.

Dave says LOOK AT THAT.
YOU TALK ABOUT FRESHLY BAKED
BREAD.

Moustafa says YES.

Dave says IT COULDN'T GET ANY
FRESHER, COULD IT?

Moustafa says DO YOU WANT TO
TRY A PIECE?

Dave says I'D LOVE SOME.

Moustafa says ABSOLUTELY.

Dave says WOW.

Moustafa says TRY IT.
SMELL THE BREAD.

Dave says OH, IT SMELLS GREAT.

Moustafa says IT'S MADE ACTUALLY
JUST YEAST, FLOUR, BRAN AND
WATER, THAT'S IT.
THAT'S WHY IT'S NOT CHEWY, IT'S
NOT GOOEY, IT HAVE THAT NICE
SMOKED FLAVOUR.

Dave says NICE BITE TO IT,
ISN'T IT?
BALADI BREAD, IT'S VERY LIKE
OUR PITA BREAD BUT THINNER.
AFTER THIS, PITA IS GOING TO
FEEL LIKE CHEWING A FLIP FLOP.
HOW MANY LOAVES OF BREAD A DAY
WOULD THIS BAKERY MAKE?

Moustafa says AVERAGE OF BETWEEN
19 AND TO 20,000 LOAVES OF BREAD
A DAY.

Dave says WHOA.

Moustafa says IN 12 HOURS.

Dave says BUT EVERY LOAF'S THE
SAME SIZE.

Moustafa says IT'S ALL THE SAME
SIZE, AND THAT'S THE TALENT.

Dave says IN EGYPT, ACCESS TO
BREAD IS ALMOST A HUMAN RIGHT
AND PRODUCTION IS SUBSIDIZED BY
THE GOVERNMENT.
THE POOR GET THEIR FIVE LOAVES
A DAY FOR THE EQUIVALENT OF
JUST TWO AND A HALF PENCE.
SO IMPORTANT IS BREAD THAT IN
2008, THREATS TO THE SUBSIDY
LED TO RIOTS.
WITH CHANTS OF "BREAD, FREEDOM
AND SOCIAL JUSTICE,"
REVOLUTIONARIES EVENTUALLY
OVERTHREW THE GOVERNMENT.

Moustafa says EVEN WE HAVE A
SAYING: YOU CAN TOUCH ANYTHING
WE HAVE BUT DON'T TOUCH MY
BREAD BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY
THING I'LL FIGHT YOU FOR.

Dave says IT'S THE PEOPLE'S
BREAD.

Moustafa says YES, IT IS.
[whooshing]

The baker flips the loaves and put them on rotating pans in the oven.

Moustafa says SEE, HE MAKES IT
LOOK SO SIMPLE AND SO EASY.

Dave says SO IT'S ONE, TWO,
FLIP, FLIP.

Moustafa says YOU FLIP, YOU FLIP
BACK.
YOU JUST USE YOUR HAND TO...

Dave says AH, HE TURNS IT OVER.

Moustafa says YES.

Dave says TO MEET DEMAND, THESE
GUYS NEED TO PRODUCE A LOAF
EVERY TWO SECONDS.
LUCKILY, THE THIN LOAVES TAKE
ONLY A COUPLE OF MINUTES TO
BAKE.
MOUSTAFA TELLS ME THERE ARE
THOUSANDS OF THESE BACK STREET
BAKERIES IN CAIRO, AND WHEREVER
YOU FIND A BAKERY, YOU'LL FIND
A NEARBY STALL SELLING FRESH
FALAFEL.
WELL, IS IT RIGHT THAT IT'S THE
OLDEST FALAFEL IN THE WORLD?

Moustafa says IT'S THE SAME WORD
IN EVERYWHERE.
LIKE, EVERYBODY'S CLAIMING IT.
WE CREATED THIS, WE CREATED
THAT, BUT FALAFEL OR TAMIYA,
IT'S EGYPTIAN.
THE WORD ITSELF IS DERIVEN FROM
THE WORD FALA FUUL.

Dave says YEAH.

Moustafa says IT'S THREE
CHAPTERS, MEANS FULL OF BEANS,
AND THAT'S WHAT FALAFEL IS.

Dave says NOW TO MY MIND,
THAT MEANS EGYPTIAN FAVA BEAN
FALAFEL MUST PRE-DATE THE CHICK
PEA FALAFEL THAT WE GET AT HOME.
[sizzling]

A cook fries falafels in a giant pan outside.

Moustafa says THE CHICK PEAS IS
A BIT DENSE.

Dave says RIGHT.

Moustafa says THE FAVA BEANS IS
MORE FLUFFIER.

Dave says YEAH.

Moustafa says GET THE NICE CRISP
FROM THE OUTSIDE, REALLY NICE
CREAMY FROM THE INSIDE.

Dave says I MUST ADMIT, I HAVE
PROBLEMS WITH FALAFEL.

Moustafa says OKAY.

Dave says I'VE TRIED MAKING IT
WITH THE FAVA BEANS, YOU KNOW,
WITH THE DRIED BROAD BEANS,
I'VE TRIED WITH CHICKPEAS.
MY FALAFEL FALL TO BITS.

Moustafa says PROBLEM IS IF YOU
BOIL THE BEANS, ACTUALLY IT
MAKE IT FALL APART.

Dave says YOU
DON'T
BOIL.
THAT'S WHERE WE GO... I'VE
BEEN BOILING MY BEANS.

Moustafa says NO, NO.
YOU JUST SOAK THEM FOR...
IN WARM WATER FOR A COUPLE OF
HOURS, IN WARM WATER.
IF YOU USE COLD WATER, YOU SOAK
IT OVERNIGHT.

Dave says YEAH, YEAH, YEAH.

Moustafa says SO IT WILL GIVE YOU
THE NICE CREAMY AND NICE
TEXTURE LIKE YOU WILL TASTE IN
HERE.

Dave says FANTASTIC.
IT IS A WORLD OF BEANS, EGYPT,
ISN'T IT?

Moustafa says IT IS.
IT'S JUST LIKE --

Dave says WOW.

Moustafa says THAT'S HOW IT LOOK
LIKE, IT'S LIKE NICE BALLS.

Dave says THEY'RE BEAUTIFUL,
AREN'T THEY?

Moustafa says YEAH, IT IS REALLY
NICE.
YOU WANT TO TRY IT?

Dave says YEAH.

Moustafa says WHAT'S GOOD ABOUT
IT, SO YOU CAN GET ALL THE
NUTRITION, YOU GET THE SALAD,
YOU GET THE TAHINI, WHICH IS A
SESAME SEED PASTE.
YOU GET ALL THOSE NICE GREENS
AND WITH THE BEANS IS THE
PROTEINS, SO...
AND THE BALADI BREAD.

They make a sandwich with all the ingredients.

Dave says YEAH, THE PEOPLES'
BREAD, COUNTRY BREAD.

Moustafa says YEAH, OF COURSE.
YOU WANT TO TRY?

Dave says THAT'S DELICIOUS,
ISN'T IT?
THE TEXTURE'S INCREDIBLE,
BECAUSE THEY'RE CRISPY ON THE
OUTSIDE, IN THE MIDDLE THEY'RE
SOFT, BUT YOU CAN TASTE THE
HERBS.

Moustafa says YEP.

Dave says THERE'S ALL THE
FLAVOUR.
THIS IS SUPERB.

Moustafa says WANT TO TRY ONE
JUST BY ITSELF.

Dave says THANK YOU.

Moustafa says THE CRUNCH, I JUST
LOVE IT.

Dave says OH, THAT'S THE BEST
FALAFEL I'VE EVER HAD.

Moustafa says OH, JUST LIKE
YOURS, RIGHT?
[laughter]

Dave says NO, MATE, NO, NO.
NO, BUT I'LL TELL YOU WHAT.
NOW I'LL HAVE SOMETHING TO
AIM FOR.
[laughter]

(music plays)

Dave says I'M BEGINNING TO SEE HOW SIMPLE
FOOD LIKE THIS, AND BREAD IN
PARTICULAR, HAS SHAPED EGYPTIAN
CULTURE, AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE
BEEN THE CASE FOR THOUSANDS OF
YEARS.
IF I AM TO UNDERSTAND THE
CUISINE HERE AND SEE HOW ITS
INFLUENCE HAS SPREAD ACROSS THE
WORLD, I NEED TO TRAVEL BACK IN
TIME.
IN EGYPT, THAT'S EASILY DONE.
[cars honking]
SO I'M LEAVING DOWNTOWN CAIRO
AND HEADING INTO THE LAND OF
THE PHARAOHS.
(music plays)

He approaches a ticket booth and says
HELLO.
CAN I HAVE ONE FOR THE BIG ONE?

The clerk says ONE?

Dave says IS IT JUST ONE PYRAMID
OR DO YOU SEE THE THREE?

The clerk says THIS TICKET, JUST...

Dave says EVERYTHING?
OH, BRILLIANT.

The clerk says YEAH, YEAH.

Dave says YEAH, ONE PLEASE.

The clerk says EIGHT POUNDS.

Dave says THANK YOU.
EIGHT QUID FOR ONE OF THE SEVEN
WONDERS OF THE WORLD --
OOH, THAT'S A BARGAIN.
SHUKRAN.
THANK YOU.
TODAY IS THE FIRST DAY OF
EID-AL-ADHA, THE FOUR-DAY FEAST
OF THE SACRIFICE, AND CAIRO'S
CROWDS HAVE POPPED OUT TO
STRETCH THEIR LEGS.
BUT FOR ME, SEEING THE PYRAMIDS
IS THE FULFILLMENT OF A BOYHOOD
DREAM.

He stands in front of a pyramid and says
THEY'RE ABSOLUTELY
BREATHTAKING.

(music plays)

Dave says WHEN THIS WAS BUILT, YOU KNOW,
FOUR AND A HALF THOUSAND YEARS
AGO, WE WERE JUST STARTING TO
BALANCE, YOU KNOW, STONEHENGE,
ONE BIG LUMP ON TWO LUMPS, AND
LOOK AT IT.
IT MAKES ME HEART FLUTTER A
BIT.
YOU KNOW LIKE WHEN YOU STAND ON
TOP OF A TALL BUILDING AND LOOK
DOWN, IT'S THAT KIND OF FEELING.
AND YET, WHEN YOU SEE SOMETHING
THAT'S SO FAMILIAR BUT IT'S
BIGGER, IT'S MORE IMPRESSIVE,
IT'S MORE AWE-INSPIRING THAN
ANY CATHEDRAL I'VE EVER SEEN.

(music plays)

Dave says BUT, YOU KNOW, IT'S TAKEN ME
57 YEARS TO GET TO THIS POINT.
AND IT WAS WELL WORTH THE WAIT.
(music plays)
I'D ALWAYS THOUGHT THE PYRAMIDS
WERE BUILT BY SLAVES BUT, IN
FACT, THEY WERE BUILT BY PAID
LABOURERS.
THEIR TAKE-HOME PAY WASN'T IN
CASH.
THEY WERE PAID IN BREAD AND
BEER.
SO YOU COULD SAY THAT THIS LOT
WAS BUILT ON THE BACK OF THE
HUMBLE LOAF.
IT'S GREAT TO SEE SO MANY
PEOPLE HERE SOAKING UP THE
CULTURE, BUT THE CROWDS ARE
MAD.
IT'S TIME TO ESCAPE.
(music plays)

Dave says WELL, THIS TRIP JUST KEEPS
GETTING BETTER AND BETTER.
I FINALLY GOT A BIKE AT LAST.
IT'S GOING TO BE CHAOS.
[engine starting]
I'VE EVEN GOT A LITTLE CAMERA
SO YOU CAN WATCH WITH US.
HEY.
[cheering]
I LOVE EGYPT.

He gets on a bike and drives along the streets.

He says EGYPTIAN ROADS AREN'T FOR THE
FAINT HEARTED.
THERE SEEM TO BE NO RULES.
[horns honking]
OVERTAKEN BY A LAD ON A PINK
SCOOTER.
ON A PLATEAU ABOVE THE DRIFTING
DESERT SANDS IS SAQQARA, HOME
TO THE WORLD'S OLDEST PYRAMIDS.
IN THE SURROUNDING DUNES,
THEY'VE FOUND THOUSANDS OF
TOMBS AND I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE
INSIDE ONE.
INCREDIBLY, I'VE GOT THE PLACE
TO MYSELF.

He pulls over and enters the tomb.

[door opening]

He says OH!
THIS IS THE TOMB OF TY.
APART FROM BEING THE ROYAL
HAIRDRESSER, HE WAS IN CHARGE
OF THE PHARAOHS' FIELDS.
HIS TOMB IS ENGRAVED WITH
IMAGES OF FARMING FROM FOUR
AND A HALF THOUSAND YEARS AGO.

He sheds light on the carvings and paintings on the walls.

He says LOOK, THIS ONE'S INTERESTING.
THIS IS LIKE THE STORY OF
BAKING, ISN'T IT?
YOU'VE GOT PICTURES HERE OF
PEOPLE AND THEY'RE KIND OF
GRINDING THE WHEAT, AND THERE,
JUDGING BY THEIR ELBOWS, THEY
APPEAR TO BE KNEADING THE
DOUGH.
THEY WERE JUST SO CLEVER, THE
EGYPTIANS.
THOSE CONICAL POTS UP THERE,
THEY'RE LIKE THE PROVING
BASKETS WE HAVE TODAY TO PUT
THE BREAD IN, BUT THEY DO BAKE
THEM IN AS WELL AS PROVING.
AND AS YOU GO DOWN, YOU CAN SEE
THERE, THEY'RE SHIELDING THEIR
FACES BECAUSE THE HEAT FROM THE
FIRE AND THEY'RE COOKING THEM
IN THE POTS.
GOSH, LOOK HERE, THE SCRIBES,
THEY'RE RECORDING EVERYTHING.
NOW, COULD IT BE...
IT'S ALMOST LIKE THEY'RE
WRITING THE FIRST EVER COOK
BOOK.
YOU KNOW, THIS IS A
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE ON HOW TO
MAKE A FOUR AND A HALF THOUSAND
YEAR OLD LOAF, SO THAT, TO MY
MIND, MAKES IT THE WORLD'S
OLDEST RECIPE.
IT'S FASCINATING.
(music plays)

Dave leaves the tomb.

He says THANK YOU VERY MUCH, SIR.
THANK YOU.
[engine starting]

He gets back on the bike and leaves.

He says EGYPT'S FARMING HISTORY
STRETCHES BACK MILLENNIA AS
PEOPLE SETTLED ALL ALONG THE
BANKS OF THE NILE.
70 MILES SOUTH OF CAIRO IS
THE OASIS OF FAYOUM.

A map shows the location of Fayoum, next to Cairo.

Dave says I'M TOLD IT'S THE GARDEN OF
EGYPT SO THERE SHOULD BE SOME
GREAT PRODUCE TO BE FOUND
THERE.
EGYPTIAN HISTORY IS AS RICH AS
IT IS LONG.
WHEN OUR FOREFATHERS GAVE UP
LIFE AS HUNTER-GATHERERS AND
STARTED FARMING, ONE OF THE
FIRST PLACES CULTIVATED WAS
THE NILE VALLEY.
[shouting]
10,000 YEARS AGO, RICH SOIL
DEPOSITED BY THE RIVER ATTRACTED
THE FIRST SETTLERS.
[horns honking]
TODAY, AN INCREDIBLE 95 PERCENT
OF EGYPTIANS LIVE ALONG THE
RIVER, AND THAT MAKES IT MORE
THAN JUST A TAD CROWDED.
[clapping]
TO SPREAD THE RIVER'S
LIFE-GIVING WATERS FURTHER
AFIELD, ANCIENT EGYPTIANS
BECAME MASTERS OF IRRIGATION
AND AS A RESULT, WERE ABLE TO
PRODUCE A HUGE RANGE OF CROPS.
NOW, I'VE READ ABOUT A PLANT
THAT'S INDIGENOUS TO EGYPT AND
HAS ALMOST MYTHICAL
HEALTH-GIVING PROPERTIES.
IT'S CALLED MOLOKHIA, AND IT'S
WHAT'S BROUGHT ME HERE TODAY.
HELLO, RUBY.
I'M DAVE.

Dave meets Ruby. Ruby is in his sixties, with short white hair in a turban and with a shadow of a beard. He wears sweat trousers and a short sleeved white shirt.

He says YEAH.

Dave says IT'S GOOD TO MEET YOU.
HEY.
RUBY IS A FELLAHIN, OR TENANT
FARMER, ON A PROPERTY WHICH HAS
GUEST HOUSES, AND I'M TOLD HE
GROWS MOLOKHIA.
RIGHT, AFTER YOU, SIR.
THANKS TO IRRIGATION, RUBY IS
ALSO ABLE TO GROW SWEET CORN,
LEMONS, BANANAS AND ORANGES,
ALL OF WHICH WILL SOON BE READY
TO HARVEST.

Ruby gives Dave a lemon from one of the lemon trees.

Dave says WOW.
MM.
NOT RIPE YET.
THEY'RE LOVELY THOUGH.
[laughter]
AROUND THE EDGES OF THE FIELDS
ARE OLIVE TREES.
LOOK AT THOSE.
NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE, YOU
KNOW, OLIVES FROM A TREE.
MMM, MMM.
IT'S NOT LIKE I
THOUGHT.
LOOK, TASTES SLIGHTLY SPICY,
IT'S THERE BUT IT'S VERY
DIFFERENT TO WHAT WE GET IN A
JAR AT HOME.
I MEAN, OBVIOUSLY, THE OIL'S
THERE; IT'S HEAVING WITH OIL.
IT'S SO FERTILE HERE, ISN'T IT?
IT IS LIKE THE GARDEN OF
PLENTY.
[branches rustling]
YOU'RE GOING TO CLIMB A TREE?
I'M NOT GOING UP.
HAVE YOU SEEN THE SPIKES ON THE
PALM?
HE'S NOT GOING UP THERE.
HE
IS
GOING UP THERE.
BLOOMING HECK, HE'S SHINNED UP
THAT TREE.
HE'S IN HIS SIXTIES.
HE'S JUST DISTURBED A HIVE OF
BEES.

Ruby says HERE WE GO.

Dave says CRIKEY, I'VE ONLY EVER REALLY
SEEN DATES, WE TAKE IT FOR
GRANTED, IN THAT CELLOPHANE
WRAPPER AT CHRISTMAS.

Ruby says HERE WE GO.
[laughter]

Dave says THIS IS ME FIRST
FRESH DATE STRAIGHT FROM THE
TREE, COULDN'T BE ANY BETTER.
IT'S STICKY, IT'S UNCTUOUS.
OH, IT'S LIKE MARSALA WINE,
MADEIRA; IT'S ALL ME
CHRISTMASES ROLLED INTO ONE.
THAT WAS BRILLIANT, RUBY.

Ruby says PLEASE PICK THOSE UP.
CARRY THOSE AND FOLLOW ME!

They both carry a bunch of dates on their shoulders and walk away.

(music plays)

Dave says THERE SEEMS TO BE A
DIVISION OF LABOUR ON THE FARM.
RUBY TENDS TO THE FIELDS, WHILE
THE HOUSE AND ANIMALS ARE
LOOKED AFTER BY HIS WIFE,
NADIA.

Nadia is in her fifties. She wears a tunic and a purple hijab.

She says HAND THIS UP.

Dave says EH?

She says PUT THIS UP THERE.

Dave says ALL RIGHT.

Dave tries to hang a sack from a 3-stick pyramidal structure. Below the sack lies a bucket.

Dave says JUST UP THERE.
OH, IT'S HEAVY.

Nadia says SHALL I HELP YOU?

Dave says OH, ALL RIGHT, SORRY.

Nadia says YES, THAT’S GREAT.

Dave says SAY, BUT GOOD?

Nadia says GREAT.

Dave says HEY, THANK YOU.
I THINK SHE SAID I'M A MAN.
ALL THE GIRLS ARE OUT HAVING
A LAUGH.

Nadia says WE PUT THE MILK HERE, AND THEN WE
SHAKE IT LIKE THIS.

Dave says SO WHAT'S THE BAG
MADE FROM?

Nadia says THIS IS FROM GOAT.

Dave says GOAT SKIN.
DO YOU JUST FILL THIS UP EVERY
DAY WITH SOME MILK AND THEN...
HOW LONG DO YOU LEAVE THE WHOLE
THING FOR?

Nadia says ONLY THREE DAYS, AND THEN WE SHAKE IT.

Dave says SO YOU LEAVE IT FOR
THREE DAYS AND THEN SHAKE IT.

Nadia says WE SEPARATE THE CURDS AND THE WHEY.
THE BUTTER AND CREAM CHEESE, WE EAT ALL OF IT.

Dave says SMELLS CHEESY.

Nadia says BLOW ON IT.

Dave says HUMPH IT?

Dave says WHAT, LIKE THE
BAGPIPES?
[blowing sounds]

Dave blows through the sack hole.

Dave says OH.
NO, YEAH?
GOOD?
DO YOU KNOW, I'VE NEVER
HUFFED ON A CHEESE BEFORE.
[laughter]
I THINK I'M WEARING IT.
ME BEARD'S SOAKED IN CHEESE,
ME GLASSES, I CAN'T SEE.
YOU'RE COVERED IN IT AND ALL,
DO YOU WANT...?
I TELL YOU WHAT, IT ISN'T LIKE
THIS WITH DELIA SMITH, IS IT?
[laughter]
[blowing sounds]

Nadia now blows in the sack.

Dave says SEE, THAT'S PROFESSIONAL
HUFFING FOR YOU, LOOK.
[laughter]

Nadia says WE SHAKE!

Dave does a little dance.

Nadia says OH, ISN’T HE SWEET!

Dave says BIG FISH, LITTLE
FISH, CARDBOARD BOX.
[swishing]
HAVING MADE A DOUBTFUL
CONTRIBUTION TO THE CHEESE
MAKING, I'M OFF TO GATHER THE
INGREDIENTS FOR THE MYTHICAL
UNPRONOUNCEABLE SOUP.
IS IT MAKLE, MAKLAMA?

Dave says MOLOKHIA.

Dave says SOUNDS SCOTTISH.

Ruby says FOR OUR MEALS, THERE HAS TO BE MOLOKHIA,
BECAUSE MOLOKHIA IS THE BEST! WE FARMERS CALL IT
ASHARIFA, WHICH MEANS “THE NOBLE ONE”

Dave says TASTES NICE.
IT'S QUITE BLAND.
IT'S A BIT LIKE PRIVET.
OF COURSE, BEING EGYPT, THE
SOUP HAS TO BE SERVED WITH
BREAD.
THE LOAVES MADE IN HOMES LIKE
RUBY'S ARE FLAT BREADS BUT
NOTHING LIKE THE BALADI BREAD
I ATE IN CAIRO.
THESE ARE MASSIVE BUT
INGENIOUSLY THEY DON'T NEED
A ROLLING PIN.
BECAUSE ONE YOUNG LADY, SHE
TAKES THE BALL OF DOUGH; IT'S
VERY, VERY LOOSE DOUGH, IT'S
VERY SLACK DOUGH, WHICH, AS WE
ALL KNOW, THAT'S GOING TO BE
REALLY GOOD BREAD.
THAT'S HOW YOU START OFF.
THE DOUGH GOES ON.

The woman starts shaking a plank with the dough on it.

Dave says THIS LADY TAKES IT SO FAR, YOU
KEEP THE CIRCLE WITH A TWIST,
ALL WITHOUT KNEADING, ALL
WITHOUT ROLLING AND IT'S
PERFECTLY CIRCULAR.
THERE'S A WONDERFUL RHYTHM TO
IT BECAUSE WHEN ONE PIECE OF
DOUGH IS READY FOR THE OVEN,
THE BREAD'S READY TO COME OUT
AND IT'S MAGIC.
IT'S JUST THE ART OF FLOUR,
WATER, AIR AND A BIT OF SALT.
DOESN'T THAT LOOK HANDSOME
BREAD?
CAN I HAVE A GO?
AH, BRILLIANT, RIGHT.
[clapping/laughing]

Dave gives it a try at flipping then bread by shaking the plank.


Dave says CAN I...
[laughter]

A woman says OH, MY GOSH.

Dave says SO THE TECHNIQUE
IS...
[laughter]
OH, THIS BREAD, IT'S LIKE
TRYING TO KNIT A JELLYFISH, BUT
LUCKILY, THE MOLOKHIA IS EASIER
TO HANDLE.
AH, THIS IS WHAT'S KNOWN AS
THE PICK THROUGH.
[whistling]
YOU KNOW, THIS REMINDS ME WHEN
I WAS KID AND I'D SIT THERE
SHELLING PEAS WITH ME MOTHER,
AND SHE USED TO MAKE ME WHISTLE
BECAUSE IF I STOPPED WHISTLING,
SHE KNEW I WAS EATING THE PEAS.
I'D LOVE TO HELP CHOP THE
LEAVES AND GARLIC, BUT I'VE GOT
A MORE IMPORTANT JOB.
[baby crying]

He holds a crying baby.

He says HE'S ONE MONTH OLD.
SOME WAYS, I HAVE THE FUTURE OF
EGYPT IN MY HAND.
[baby crying]
I'LL TELL YOU WHAT, SON, YOU'RE
GOING TO GROW UP WITH SOME GOOD
BREAD, AREN'T YOU?
ONCE THE LEAVES ARE CHOPPED,
A STOCK IS PREPARED.
SO IT'S SALT, CHICKEN STOCK
AND CUMIN.
IT'S JUST A NICE BASIC BROTH.
AND THERE IT GOES IN.
THE MOLOKHIA ONLY NEEDS TO COOK
FOR ABOUT FIVE MINUTES.
WHAT'S THAT?

A woman says SAMNA.

Dave says SAMNA:
OH, IT'S BUFFALO GHEE.
A GENEROUS DOLLOP OF CRUSHED
GARLIC IS QUICKLY FRIED.
AH, THAT SMELLS GOOD.
LIKE EVERYTHING YOU SEE IN THIS
DISH, IT'S ALL FROM WITHIN THE
RADIUS OF THE FARM.
SO THE GARLIC'S BROWNED.
[sizzling]
WHOA.
THERE YOU ARE, YOU SEE.
IN TRUE DELIA STYLE, SHE'S
DEGLAZING THE PAN WITH A LITTLE
OF THE STOCK SO YOU WASTE NONE
OF THE GOODNESS AT THE BOTTOM
OF THE PAN.
FINIS?
HEY.
IN TRADITIONAL EGYPTIAN
HOUSEHOLDS, THE MEN AND
CHILDREN EAT BEFORE THE WOMEN.
THIS BREAD'S ABSOLUTELY
STUNNING.

Dave and Ruby sit at the table with 3 children.

Dave says IT'S GOT TEXTURE.
WE SAW IT BAKED 10 MINUTES AGO.
THE SOUP'S WONDERFUL.
IT REMINDS ME OF WILD GARLIC
SOUP.
VERY NOURISHING, VERY GOOD FOR
YOU AND VERY TASTY; VERY PURE
TASTING FOOD.
I MEAN, I THINK THAT'S THE
THING ABOUT EGYPTIAN CUISINE,
THAT I THINK THAT'S ITS
TRIUMPH.
IT'S NOT COMPLICATED, SO THE
INGREDIENTS, THE QUALITY AND
THE CARE IN PREPARATION IS
MASSIVE, AND YOU CAN TASTE IT.
IT'S SIMPLE FOOD, AND SIMPLEST
IS BEST.
AND SIMPLE WORKS BECAUSE THE
INGREDIENTS ARE ABSOLUTELY
SUPERB.
IT'S PURE, IT'S GOT HERITAGE,
IT'S GOT LOVE IN IT, YOU KNOW.
RUBY'S FAMILY'S HOSPITALITY IS
BOUNDLESS, BUT THERE'S SO MUCH
MORE FOR ME TO DISCOVER.
[goats bleating]
BYE, RUBY.
THANK YOU.
AND I'VE STILL GOT HALF THE
COUNTRY TO EXPLORE.
[engine starts]
BYE.
BYE.
(music plays)
FROM FAYOUM, I'M HEADING 300
MILES SOUTH TO LUXOR IN SEARCH
OF SOME CLASSIC EGYPTIAN DISHES
AND THE WORLD'S EARLIEST BREAD.

A map shows the location of Luxor.

Dave says ONCE THE CAPITAL OF ANCIENT
EGYPT, LUXOR IS ONE OF THE
HOTTEST, DRIEST CITIES ON
EARTH.
(music plays)

A man says WELCOME TO ALASKA!

Dave says THANKS TO THE RIVER,
IT'S AMAZING WHAT THEY CAN
GROW, BUT I MUSTN'T BE
WAYLAID BY THE PRODUCE.
I'M CROSSING TO THE WEST BANK.
MOST PEOPLE COME HERE FOR THE
ARCHAEOLOGY, BUT I'M HOPING TO
FIND LIVING HISTORY, PROOF OF
AN ANCIENT FOOD REVOLUTION THAT
CHANGED THE WORLD.
(music plays)
THIS PLACE USED TO BE A POPULAR
STOP FOR DAY TRIPPERS, BUT
THESE DAYS, TOURISTS ARE THIN
ON THE GROUND.
(music plays)

He approaches a vendor on the street.

He says OH, CRIKEY, IT'S OH.
LUCKILY I'M HERE.
EGYPTIAN COTTON?

Dave says CAN I PICK A COLOUR?

The vendor says YES, NICE COLOUR.

Dave says THERE A BLUE?
CAN I HAVE BLUE?

Dave says OH, IT'S WELL OVER
40 DEGREES.
I NEED TO COVER MY HEAD BEFORE
THE SUN BOILS MY BRAIN.
THAT'S BETTER.

The vendor says NICE?

The vendor wraps a blue piece of cotton around Dave’s head, making him a turban.

Dave says I THINK SO.
I ACTUALLY FEEL THE SPIRIT OF
T.E. LAWRENCE IS UPON ME,
MYERS OF ARABIA.
SHUKRAN.

The vendor says THANK YOU.

Dave says THANK YOU.
NOW I'VE SUDDENLY REMEMBERED
I'M HALFWAY THROUGH THE TRIP,
AND I HAVEN'T LOOKED AT KINGY'S
LIST FOR PRESSIES.
HAVE YOU SEEN THIS?
CAMEL, RUG, MUMMY, LARGE, GEE.
OH, I'LL PICK UP A FEW BITS
HERE AND THAT'LL DO HIM.

Another vendor sells crafts.

He says SEE.
THIS ONE, NICE.
OBELISK, OBELISK.
NO BROKEN, NO BROKEN.

Dave spots a figure of an endowed Egyptian man.

Dave says I THINK HE'D LOVE
THAT.
YOU SEE THAT BOBBY DAZZLER?
IT'S NOT ON HIS LIST.
HOW MUCH?

The vendor says 200 EGYPTIAN.

Dave says 200?

Another vendor says 180.

Dave says 120.

The vendor says 180.

Dave says 120.

The vendor says I’M NOT WANTING NO 80, 70.

Dave says 150.

The vendor says 60.

Dave shakes his hand.

Dave says A BARGAIN.
HE'S GOING TO LOVE THAT.
I THINK I BETTER HAVE A DARK
BAG FOR THAT ONE.
I DON'T KNOW HOW I'LL GET IT
HOME IN ONE PIECE.
DO I HAVE TO BUY THE THREE?

He points at a set of three black pyramids.

A vendor says YEAH.

Dave says HOW MUCH FOR THREE?

The vendor says 135, THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

Dave says OH, GO ON THEN.

Dave says OH, THESE BLOKES CAN
SPOT A SUCKER WHEN THEY SEE
ONE.

Another vendor says HELLO!

Dave says NO, I DON'T WANT THEM.

The vendor says 50, 50.

Dave says NO, I'VE GOT PLENTY.

Dave says NO, I'VE GOT ONE.
I'VE GOT A SCARAB.

Several vendors try to offer him things.

Another vendor says NOT SAME, NOT SAME.

Dave says NO, I'VE...

The vendor says YOU DON'T SEE MY
SHOP.

Dave says NO, I'M FINE.
IT'S LOVELY.
FOR 30 QUID, I'VE GOT AN ARMFUL
OF TAT, SO I'M GETTING OUT
WHILE I CAN.
TO FIND THE ORIGINS OF OUR
DAILY BREAD, I DON'T HAVE TO
LOOK FAR.
THE TEMPLES WERE BUILT IN THE
DESERT, BUT THE LAND NEARBY HAS
ALWAYS BEEN FARMED.
MAHMOUD?
IT'S DAVE.

Mahmoud is in his forties, clean shaven and with short curly black hair. HE wears a tunic and a scarf.

Mahmoud says NICE TO MEET YOU,
MISTER.

Dave says NICE TO MEET YOU TOO.

Mahmoud says THANK YOU.

Dave says I'VE ARRANGED TO
MEET MAHMOUD, WHOSE FAMILY HAVE
FARMED HERE FOR GENERATIONS.
TODAY, THEY'RE STARTING THEIR
WEEKLY BAKE.
SO FAR, I'VE ONLY EATEN FLAT
BREAD, BUT THIS IS DIFFERENT.
IT'S CALLED SHAMSI BREAD, AND
IT CHANGED THE EATING HABITS OF
THE PLANET.
WITHOUT THIS ANCIENT RECIPE,
WE WOULDN'T HAVE SANDWICHES OR
EVEN TOAST.
ALL I REALLY KNOW ABOUT SHAMSI
BREAD IS IT IS THE FIRST KNOWN
LEAVENED BREAD IN THE WORLD.
SO IF WE'RE TALKING OF GROUND
ZEROS, THIS IS IT FOR THE LOAF
AS WE KNOW IT, JIM.
WHAT'S IN THERE, MAHMOUD?

They meet a woman kneading a large amount of dough.

Mahmoud says THIS IS FLOUR, SALT AND WATER.

Dave says SO THERE'S NO YEAST.
THERE'S NO, NOTHING TO LEAVEN
THE BREAD YET.

Mahmoud says YES, NOT YET.

Dave says AH, HERE COMES THE
YEAST.

Mahmoud says YES.

Dave says WHAT IS THAT YEAST?

Mahmoud says NATURAL YEAST.

Dave says THAT'S WHAT WE CALL
A SOUR DOUGH BREAD, WHICH IS
THE OLDEST, THE BEST WAY OF
MAKING BREAD IN THE WORLD.
THE WORD "SHAMSI" MEANS SUN,
AND THIS IS STILL THE ONLY
BREAD IN EGYPT THAT'S LEFT TO
RISE.
THERE'S NO RECORD OF HOW THE
ANCIENT EGYPTIANS FIRST CAME UP
WITH THE IDEA OF USING YEAST TO
LEAVEN BREAD.
IT'S MY GUESS THAT IT WAS A
HAPPY ACCIDENT.
WITH THE SUN THIS HOT, THE
YEAST WOULDN'T HAVE NEEDED LONG
TO WORK ITS MAGIC.
HOW LONG DO WE LEAVE IT TO
SIT IN THE SUN FOR?

Mahmoud says IF THE SUN IS HOT,
VERY STRONG, TWENTY MINUTES. AND
IF THE SUN IS NOT STRONG, IT TAKES
FORTY FIVE MINUTES.

Dave says I THINK WHERE I
LIVE, MAHMOUD, IT WOULD TAKE
ABOUT TWO DAYS.
[laughter]
WOULD YOU EVER BUY BREAD?

Mahmoud says I LOVE MY WIFE TO
MAKE OUR BREAD IN THE HOUSE, BECAUSE IT’S CLEAN,
FRESH AND I SEE WHAT SHE’S BEEN MIXING.
AND ALSO WHEN I GOT ENGAGED TO MY WIFE, I HAVE
TO TEST HER. IF SHE MAKES NICE BREAD, THEN
I CONTINUE. BUT IF SHE DOESN’T SUCCEED, THEN
I HAVE TO FINISH.

Dave says I HAVE TO MAKE THE
BREAD IN MY HOUSE.

Mahmoud says IT’S MORE IMPORTANT TO MAKE NICE
BREAD.

Dave says MAHMOUD, WHY IS SHE CUTTING
THE BREAD AND PINCHING IT?

Mahmoud says THIS IS TO MAKE THE BREAD LOOK BEAUTIFUL.

Dave says JUST DECORATION?

Mahmoud says YES, DECORATION.
THIS IS SINCE LONG TIME.

Dave says UH-HUH, UH-HUH.
WHILE THE BREAD RISES, A FIRE
IS LIT BENEATH THE CLAY OVEN.
[sizzling]
WHAT SHE'S DOING NOW IS SHE'S
GOT THE RAG DIPPED IN WATER.
SHE'S CLEANING THE OVEN OUT
WITH IT.
SHE CAN ALSO TELL IF THE OVEN'S
HOT BECAUSE OBVIOUSLY IT'S
SIZZLING, BUT I THINK LIKE MOST
BAKING, YOU GET SOME STEAM IN
THE OVEN, YOU GET A BETTER
BREAD.
SO IT'S LIKE A THREEFOLD THING.
RIGHT, IT'S IN THE OVEN,
20 MINUTES, THIS IS WHERE THE
MAGIC STARTS.
BUT WE DON'T HAVE TO WAIT LONG
BEFORE A WONDERFUL SMELL WAFTS
OUR WAY.
OH!

Mahmoud’s wife takes a loaf out of the oven.

Dave says OH, GOSH, YES.

Dave tries the bread.

Dave says THAT'S ABSOLUTELY
WONDERFUL BREAD.
THE CRUST ON IT, IN A WOOD
FIRED OVEN, THE INSIDE, IT'S
SOFT, IT'S GOT TEXTURE, IT'S
GOT SPRING, IT'S GOT LIFE
BECAUSE OF THAT YEAST.
IT ALSO HAS A WONDERFUL TASTE.
IT'S FLAVOURSOME BREAD.
DO YOU KNOW WHAT I'VE LEARNT
FROM THIS THAT I FIND
ABSOLUTELY AWE-INSPIRING IS
THAT NOT SO VERY FAR FROM THIS
VERY SPOT, IT WAS WHERE MANKIND
FIRST STARTED TO LEAVEN BREAD,
THAT IS TO USE YEAST TO MAKE
BREAD.
BEFORE THEY STARTED IN THIS
PLACE, EVERYBODY IN THE WORLD
ATE FLAT BREAD.
THIS REALLY IS LIKE FINDING THE
HOLY GRAIL.
YOU KNOW, I FEEL LIKE I'M
INDIANA JONES AND THE LOST LOAF.
IT REALLY IS A PRIVILEGE,
MAHMOUD, TO BE HERE WITH YOU
AND YOUR FAMILY.
I'VE GOT HUGE RESPECT FOR YOU
ALL.
AND, BY CRIKEY, YOUR BREAD IS
AMAZING.

Mahmoud says THANK YOU.

Dave says BUT CAN I HAVE A
LOAF TO TAKE WITH ME?

Mahmoud says YEAH, OF COURSE.

Dave says YES!

(music plays)

Dave says MAHMOUD'S VILLAGE
OVERLOOKS THE ENORMOUS TEMPLE
OF RAMESSES THE THIRD.

A passer-by says HELLO.

Dave says HELLO.
SHAMSI BREAD!
RAMESSES RULED EGYPT 1,200
YEARS BEFORE THE BIRTH OF
CHRIST, AND SHAMSI BREAD WOULD
HAVE BEEN A STAPLE OF HIS
HOUSEHOLD.
(music plays)
IF YOU CAN IMAGINE, LIKE, THE
VICTORIANS WHEN THEY CAME HERE
THINKING THEY WERE SO CLEVER
WITH THEIR EMPIRE, THEY MUST
HAVE THOUGHT THIS WAS BUILT BY
PEOPLE FROM ANOTHER PLANET.
WE KNOW SO MUCH ABOUT THE
ANCIENT EGYPTIANS BECAUSE THEIR
CIVILIZATION LASTED FOR OVER
3,000 YEARS, AND THEY LEFT
BEHIND AN INCREDIBLY DETAILED
RECORD OF THEIR LIVES.
I'M GOING TO A SMALL TOMB BUILT
NOT FOR ROYALTY BUT FOR A
SCRIBE.
MAHMOUD BOOK SAYS IT'S ONE
OF THE MOST BEAUTIFULLY
DECORATED EVER DISCOVERED.
OH, WOW.
MAHMOUD, THESE COLOURS ARE
INCREDIBLE, AREN'T THEY?
HOW THEY'VE STAYED LIKE THIS
OVER THE YEARS.
HOW OLD IS THIS TOMB?

Mahmoud says THIS TOMB IS FROM 1200 BC.

Dave says CRIKEY, SO WE'RE...
WE'RE OVER 3,000 YEARS AGO,
BECAUSE THIS IS EXTRAORDINARY.
ALL OF THIS IS ABOUT FOOD.

Mahmoud says WE START WITH HARVEST SCENES, IN THE WHEAT.
AND THEY MAKE THE WHEAT READY TO MAKE BREAD.

Dave says THIS IS ALSO A RECORD
OF WHAT LIFE WAS LIKE FOR
ORDINARY PEOPLE.

Mahmoud says LOOK AT THESE TWO GUYS UNDER THE TREE.
THEY ARE TIRED, THEY ARE ON A BREAK NOW. SOMEONE PLAYS
MUSIC, AND THE OTHER ONE IS TIRED AND WANTS TO SLEEP.
AND LOOK AT THE WATER TANK HERE. IT’S SKIN, ANIMAL
SKIN WITH WATER IN IT.

Dave says WHAT'S THIS SCENE?

Mahmoud says IT’S THE MOST IMPORTANT. THIS REFLECTS THE
RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE GOD OF THE AFTERLIFE, OSIRIS. THIS
IS THE GOD OF PARADISE. AND HERE THE DECEASED ARE WORSHIPPING, AND PRESENTING ALL KINDS OF OFFERINGS. ALL HIS FAVOURITE FOODS, THEY PRESENT IT FOR HIS GOD.

Dave says SO FOOD HAD A PART
WITH THE DEAD AS WELL AS THE
LIVING.

Dave says YOU NEED TO FEED
THE SPIRIT.

Mahmoud says TO LIVE IN THE AFTERLIFE, YOU MUST EAT.

Mahmoud says YES. YOU SEE THE BREAD?
IT'S THE SAME, IT'S LIKE
SHAMSI BREAD.

Dave says THAT'S FANTASTIC.
I MEAN... WHEN WE MADE THE
SHAMSI BREAD, THE LADIES WERE
DOING EXACTLY THE SAME CUTS
TO MAKE THE SAME SHAPE AS MY
LOAF I HAVE WITH ME.

Mahmoud says YEAH.

Dave says THE LADY DIDN'T
KNOW WHY THEY DID IT, BUT THEY
CERTAINLY DID IT THREE AND A
HALF THOUSAND YEARS AGO, AND
IT'S SUCH A RICH HERITAGE THAT
THE EGYPTIANS HAVE.
YOU KNOW, IT REALLY IS A WINDOW
ON THE PAST.
IT'S BEEN GREAT TO HAVE A
GLIMPSE THROUGH IT AS WELL.
TOMBS HERE SHOW HOW IMPORTANT
FOOD WAS TO THE ANCIENT
EGYPTIANS IN DEATH AS IN LIFE.
ON SPECIAL OCCASIONS, FAMILIES
HERE STILL TAKE FOOD TO THE
GRAVES OF THEIR LOVED ONES.
ON MY JOURNEY SO FAR, I'VE
EATEN STREET FOOD OR FOOD WITH
FAMILIES.
BUT THERE'S A RESTAURANT IN
LUXOR THAT HAS A SPECIALITY
I'VE BEEN TOLD THAT I SHOULDN'T
MISS.
AYMAN?
IT'S DAVE.

He enters a restaurant and greets the man behind the counter.

Ayman is a man in his forties, clean-shaven and with very short brown hair. He wears a white tunic.

Ayman says HI, DAVE.
NICE TO SEE YOU.

Dave says OH, IT'S GREAT TO
MEET YOU.

Ayman says A PLEASURE.

Dave says TO TRY THIS SPECIALITY,
I'VE GOT TO EARN MY KEEP.
AH, THIS IS GREAT, AYMAN.
BACK IN A KITCHEN COOKING WITH
A MATE.

Ayman says I WILL SHOW YOU THIS
VERY LITTLE PIGEON.

Dave says EGYPTIAN'S LOVE
THEIR PIGEONS, DON'T THEY?

Ayman says THEY DO< THEY DO. BY THE WAY,
TODAY IS THURSDAY AND FOR THURSDAY THERE IS A LITTLE
STORY BEHIND THIS.

Dave says WHY ON THURSDAY?

Ayman says PIGEONS ARE GOOD FOR NICE EVENINGS
FOR COUPLES SO FRIDAY, TOMORROW, WILL BE A FREE DAY.
SO GUYS LOVE TO EAT PIGEONS THIS EVENING.

Dave says REALLY?
IS PIGEON AN
APHRODISIAC?

Ayman says YES, THIS IS THE TRADITIONAL ONE.

Dave says GETS YOU GOING?

Ayman says YES.

Dave says OOH LA LA.
TO TURN THESE BIRDS INTO
NATURAL VIAGRA, THEY NEED
STUFFING WITH RED ONION, FINELY
CHOPPED CORIANDER, AND CHOPPED
GARLIC.
[chopping]
SO WHAT'S YOUR FAVOURITE
EGYPTIAN DISH?

Ayman says IT’S WHAT WE’RE DOING NOW.

Dave says THE PIGEON.

Ayman says THE PIGEON, YES.

Dave says HOW MANY CHILDREN
DO YOU HAVE?
[laughter]

Ayman says TWO. BUT THEY WERE NOT MADE ON THURSDAY EVENING.

Dave says A NIGHT OFF.
THE FLAVOURS ARE SAUTEED TO
BRING OUT THE SWEETNESS; THEN
IT JUST NEEDS SEASONING.

Ayman says THIS IS GOOD.

Dave says YES, CHEF.
RICE AND CRACKED WHEAT, OR
FEREEKH, ARE SEPARATELY
SIMMERED IN STOCK.
ONCE COOKED, IT'S ALL MIXED
TOGETHER READY FOR STUFFING.

Ayman says NOW WE START TO DO THE DIFFICULT PART OF THE WHOLE THING.
OUR LITTLE PIGEONS. YOU ALWAYS USE THIS ONE.

He shows his thumb.

Dave says OPEN WIDE PATIENT.

Ayman starts stuffing the pigeons.

Ayman says BECAUSE IT’S ABOUT PUTTING AS MUCH AS YOU CAN OF THIS, INTO EACH PIGEON.

Dave says THE STUFFED PIGEONS
ARE POACHED FOR 10 MINUTES,
THEN SEARED OVER A HIGH HEAT.
LOOK NICE AND PLUMP, DON'T
THEY?
THIS IS EFFECTIVELY EQUIVALENT
OF PUTTING DINNER ON A SUN BED,
AND A LITTLE MORE FLAVOUR MAKES
IT LOOK BETTER AND EVERYBODY
LOOKS BETTER WITH A TAN, MOI?
ONCE CRISPY, THEY'RE READY TO
SERVE.
THIS IS A PHARAOH'S FEAST,
ISN'T IT?
EVEN IN ONE OF LUXOR'S POSHEST
RESTAURANTS, THE FOOD IS
UNPRETENTIOUS.
IN A COUNTRY AS FERTILE AS
THIS, THE INGREDIENTS SPEAK FOR
THEMSELVES.
AH, LOOK AT THAT STUFFING.
THE FEREEKH'S HUGE NOW.
THAT'S DELICIOUS.

Ayman says THIS IS REALLY GOOD.

Dave says THE FEREEKH'S
LOVELY.
IT'S REALLY QUITE NUTTY.
IT'S GOT SOME BITE TO IT, BUT
IT'S NOT CRUNCHY.
I'VE COOKED FEREEKH AT HOME
BEFORE AND FOUND IT, MAYBE IT'S
THE WAY I'VE DONE IT, IT'S BEEN
A LITTLE TOO KIND OF CRUNCHY.
BUT THIS ISN'T.
IT'S GOT THE TEXTURE OF BROWN
RICE BUT HAS LOADS AND LOADS OF
FLAVOUR, AND I SUSPECT PART OF
THAT IS BECAUSE IT'S COOKED IN
THE PIGEON STOCK.
THE PIGEON FLESH, IT'S REALLY,
REALLY JUICY, IT'S LOVELY.
I COULDN'T POSSIBLY REVEAL IF
STUFFED PIGEON WORKS AS AN
APHRODISIAC, BUT I CAN TELL YOU
THAT IN THE MORNING, I HAD A
CERTAIN SPRING IN MY STEP.
(music plays)
THERE COMES A TIME IN EVERY
MAN'S LIFE WHEN HE'S GOT TO
SMARTEN UP A BIT AND THIS, FOR
ME, IS IT.

He now wears a white suit and a printed vest.

Dave says HEADING SOUTH TOWARDS ASWAN,
I'M FINALLY GETTING TO TRAVEL
ON THE RIVER.
THIS HISTORIC VESSEL IS THE
STEAMSHIP
SUDAN.
IT'S THE LAST WORD IN VINTAGE
STYLE, SO ONE FEELS DUTY BOUND
TO DUST OFF ONE'S COOLEST SUIT.
(music plays)

HE starts dancing on the boat.

He says WHEN THE BRITISH FIRST CAME ON
HOLIDAY TO EGYPT IN THE LATE
1800s, THEY TRAVELLED UP THE
NILE ON STEAMSHIPS LIKE THIS.
FORTUNATELY, NOT MUCH HAS
CHANGED.
OH, YES.
I'M GLAD I DRESSED UP NOW.

He enters an elegant suite.

The porter says HERE IS TELEPHONE, SPEAK FOR RECEPTION.

Dave says OH, DING DONG.
BEAUTIFUL.
IT'S BEAUTIFUL.
OH, SHUKRAN.

The porter says YOU'RE WELCOME, SIR.
YOU'RE WELCOME.

Dave says THANK YOU, SHUKRAN.

The porter says YOU'RE WELCOME, SIR.

Dave says THE FIRST TOURS OF
EGYPT WERE ORGANIZED BY THOMAS
COOK, BUT THE PADDLE STEAMER
SUDAN
IS THE LAST SURVIVOR OF
THE COMPANY'S EARLY VESSELS.
SOME TEA.
MERCI.
(music plays)
AGATHA CHRISTIE TRAVELLED ON
THIS VERY BOAT IN THE 1930s.
SHE WAS SO INSPIRED BY THE
WHOLE EXPERIENCE, SHE WROTE
DEATH ON THE NILE.
(music plays)
THE CLIENTELE ARE MAINLY FRENCH
THESE DAYS, SO THERE'S A HIGH
END KITCHEN WHERE I HEAR THEY
MAKE EGYPT'S MOST POPULAR
DESSERT, UUM ALI.
GOOD MORNING, CHEF.

The chef says GOOD MORNING.

Dave says HEY, GOOD MORNING.
IT'S LOVELY TO MEET YOU.
SO WHAT DO YOU HAVE THERE?
IS THAT A PUFF PASTRY, A MILLE
FEUILLE?

Dave says MMM.

The chef says THIS IS MY HOMEMADE FLAKY PASTRY.

He pours some sugar on 4 bowls with flakes.

Dave says IS THIS COCONUT?

The chef says YEAH.

Dave says SOME GOLDEN SULTANAS.

The chef says YEAH.

Dave says SO THAT'S SOME
ROASTED HAZELNUTS.

The chef says OUI.

Dave says THIS IS BUILDING UP
REALLY NICELY.
AND A TINY, TINY AMOUNT OF
CINNAMON.

The chef says SMALL.

Dave says SMALL.
YEAH, YOU DON'T WANT TOO MUCH
CINNAMON.
NOW SOME HOT MILK.

The chef says HOT MILK.

Dave says WHEN THE HOT MILK
HITS THE PUDDING, YOU CAN SMELL
THE CINNAMON, THE TOASTED
COCONUT, THE ROASTED ALMONDS...
IT'S GOING TO BE GOOD.
DID YOU USED TO EAT THIS DISH
WHEN YOU WERE A CHILD?

The chef says YES. UUM ALI IS A FAVOURITE DISH FOR THE EGYPTIANS. IT’S MY FAVOURITE DISH THAT MY MUM USED TO MAKE FOR US.

Dave says DO YOU THINK YOUR
UUM ALI IS BETTER THAN YOUR
MOTHER'S?
[laughter]

The chef says MAYBE…BUT MY MUM’S ALWAYS THE BEST!

Dave says WHAT'S THIS, CHEF?

The chef says IT'S JUST CREAM,
CHANTILLY.

Dave says CHANTILLY CREAM.
I MEAN, THE WONDERFUL THING
ABOUT THIS DESSERT, I MEAN
UUM ALI, IT SOUNDS SO EGYPTIAN.
BUT O'MALLEY, IT'S O'MALLEY
AS IN THE IRISH.
THERE'S AN IRISH LADY, A
MISSUS O'MALLEY, AND SHE WAS THE
LOVER OF THE KHEDIVE, AND SHE
MADE THIS DESSERT FOR HIM AND
HIS CHILDREN, AND IT SPREAD
THROUGH EGYPT LIKE A PLAGUE OF
LOCUSTS AND THE EGYPTIANS LOVE
IT TO THIS DAY.
DO YOU KNOW, THIS IS LIKE THE
MOST DELICATE REFINED BREAD AND
BUTTER PUDDING I'VE EVER SEEN.
THE UUM ALI TAKES JUST 15
MINUTES TO BAKE AND SMELLS
AMAZING.
OH!

The chef takes the pastry out of the oven.

He says THE UUM ALI IS READY.

Dave says OH, IT'S SMELLING
GOOD AND IT'S LOOKING GOOD.
THE COCONUT'S BEEN
TOASTED, AND THOSE WONDERFUL
HAZELNUTS AND YOU GOT THE MILK
INSTEAD OF THE CUSTARD, SO IT'S
LIGHTER.
IT'S GOT THE MOST WONDERFUL
CHANTILLY TOPPING FOR
SWEETNESS.
IT'S ABSOLUTELY LOVELY.
DO YOU KNOW, I'M GOING TO COOK
THIS FOR KINGY WHEN I GET HOME.
THIS IS A KEEPER.
MMM.
AH, SHUKRAN, CHEF, THANK YOU.
(music plays)

Dave says THE LAST STOP ON MY JOURNEY IS
AS FAR SOUTH AS THE BOAT CAN
TAKE ME.
THE CITY OF ASWAN SITS AT THE
TOP OF LAKE NASSER AND IS AN
ANCIENT STAGING POST FOR TRADE
BETWEEN EGYPT AND THE REST OF
AFRICA.

A map shows the locations if Luxor and Aswan.

Dave says YOU KNOW, THE FURTHER SOUTH I
GET, THE MORE TIMELESS AND
REMOTE, YOU KNOW, EGYPT SEEMS.
YOU GET AWAY FROM THE HUSTLE
AND BUSTLE IN THE CITIES IN THE
NORTH AND YOU CAN PRACTICALLY
TASTE THE HISTORY.
YOU CAN FEEL IT THE AIR.
IN 1902, THE BRITISH DAMMED THE
NILE.
THE RISING WATERS FLOODED LOCAL
VILLAGES, DISPLACING A PEOPLE
WHO'D BEEN LIVING BESIDE THE
RIVER FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS.
THIS ANCIENT CIVILIZATION, THE
NUBIANS, WERE FORCED TO
RESETTLE, MANY OF THEM AROUND
ASWAN.
IT'S THE LAST DAY OF EID EL
ADHA, THE FEAST OF THE
SACRIFICE...
AND A CHANCE FOR ME TO TRY
AN ANCIENT NUBIAN DISH THAT HAS
BECOME A FAVOURITE ACROSS THE
ENTIRE ARAB WORLD.
I'VE BEEN INVITED BY THE
FERRYMEN, BASSEM AND HIS UNCLE
EZZAT, TO JOIN THEIR FAMILY
CELEBRATIONS.
OH, BASSEM, IT'S BEAUTIFUL.
A BEAUTIFUL HOME YOU HAVE.

BAssem is in his late forties, clean-shaven and with very short brown hair. He wears a white tunic.

They enter a property with a yard in the centre.

Bassem says WELCOME.

Dave says SO DO THE WHOLE
FAMILY LIVE HERE?

Bassem says YES, THE WHOLE FAMILY LIVE HERE. WE BRING OUR BEDS HERE, OUTSIDE AND WE SLEEP HERE ALL THE NIGHTS.

Dave says AH, SO YOU'RE IN
THE DESERT, YOU'RE SLEEPING
UNDER THE STARS WITH THE PEOPLE
YOU LOVE.

Bassem says YEAH.

Dave says HEY, HELLO.

Two kids wavy back and run.

Dave laughs.

Dave says I'VE HEARD THAT THE NUBIANS GO
TO GREAT LENGTHS TO GUARD THEIR
ANCIENT TRADITIONS, AND THAT
INCLUDES THEIR FOOD.
SO WHAT'S ON THE MENU TODAY?
[sheep bleating]

Bassem says THE MENU ACTUALLY, BREAKFAST IS LIVER AND LUNCH IS NUBIAN FATTA.

Dave says UNFORTUNATELY, BOTH
MEALS ARE STILL ON THE HOOF.

Bassem tries to catch a sheep.

Dave says THAT'S LUNCH.
YOU SEE, IT'S A SHEEP, AND IT'S
BEING SLAUGHTERED, BUT YOU
KNOW, IF YOU'RE GOING TO EAT
IT, YOU HAVE TO FACE UP TO IT.
IT WAS A LIVING THING.
ALL OVER THE WORLD, MILLIONS
OF MUSLIM HOUSEHOLDS ARE
SACRIFICING THEIR BEST ANIMAL
TO MARK THIS FEAST.
MERCIFULLY FOR THE SHEEP AND
FOR ME, HERE IT'S A QUICK AND
EFFICIENT PROCESS.

Bassem says SO YOU CAN SEE THE PEOPLE HERE, THEY LIKE THIS AND THEY ARE HANGING ON THE WALL. THEY ARE BRINGING THE LUCK LIKE THIS.

They children soak their hands in the dead sheep’s blood and leave their prints on walls.

Dave says OH, CHILDREN PUT
THEIR HAND PRINTS.
A WHOLE SHEEP IS A LOT OF MEAT,
BUT NOTHING WILL GET WASTED.

Bassem says IN OUR FEAST WHEN WE SACRIFICE THE SHEEP, IT MUST DIVIDE INTO THREE. ONE THIRD WE GIVE TO THE POOR PEOPLE. ONE THIRD WE MUST INVITE OUR FAMILY AND THE NEIGHBOUR, LIKE THIS. AND ONE THIRD IS FOR THE HOUSE. IT MUST BE LIKE THIS IN THE FEAST.

Dave says SO THAT'S PROPER
SOCIAL CARE, ISN'T IT?
IT'S CARE FOR YOUR NEIGHBOURS.

Another man fleshes the sheep.

Bassem says YEAH.

Dave says YEAH.

Dave says IT'S THE LIVER.

Bassem says YEAH, THIS IS THE LIVER.

Dave says AND THAT'S BREAKFAST.

Bassem says THIS IS THE HEART THAT’S COMING NOW.
Dave says UH-HUH, IT'S THE HEART.

Bassem says YOU GET THE HEART.
THE OFFAL IS STILL WARM.
I'VE NEVER EATEN LIVER THIS
FRESH.
BREAKFAST.
HELLO, I AM DAVE.

Moushira is in her thirties. She wears a yellow tunic and a printed hijab.

Moushira says MOUSHIRA.

Dave says PLEASED TO MEET YOU,
MOUSHIRA.

Moushira says ME TOO.

Dave says CHEF, WHAT SHOULD I DO?

Moushira says CUT.

Dave says UH-HUH.
JUST, HOW?

Moushira says YES, LIKE THIS.

Dave says YEAH?
RIGHT, SO THE LIVER, THE HEART,
IT'S AGAIN CHOPPED?

Moushira says YES, YEAH.

Dave says THE HEART'S GOOD MEAT.
I MEAN, YOU NEED TO CORE IT
PROPERLY, AND THAT'S THE
TESTICLES.
THEY GO IN AS WELL.
TOUGH OLD NUTS.
[laughter]
SHEEP'S NUTS ARE ALL RIGHT.
IT'S A LOT OF GOOD MEAT.
IT'S LEAN.
I MEAN THAT, IF YOU DIDN'T
KNOW, YOU'D THINK WAS A CHICKEN
BREAST.
IT'S REALLY GOOD MEAT.
DO YOU THINK I HAVE THE
POTENTIAL TO MAKE A NUBIAN
CHEF?
[laughter]
GOT SPICING GOING
IN, AND IT'S THAT MIDDLE EASTERN
TRINITY OF CORIANDER, CUMIN AND
SALT.
IT'S REALLY PURE SIMPLE
COOKING, BUT IT'S REALLY,
REALLY FRESH.
COULDN'T GET MUCH FRESHER
MEAT.
IT'S GOING TO BE REALLY NICE,
YOU KNOW.
HELLO.

A woman says HELLO.

Dave says HELLO.
SO THIS IS THE MAIN EVENT.
THIS IS THE FATTA.
IT IS MUTTON; IT'S NOT LAMB.
IT'S GROWN ON A BIT, AND IT'S
VERY FRESH.
WHAT IS THE SPICE?
IS THAT CUMIN?

The woman says THIS IS BLACK PEPPER, BAY LEAF AND CARDAMOM.

Dave says FLAVOUR'S GOING TO
BUILD UP LOVELY.
[children shouting]

Dave says TRUE TO FORM, THERE
WILL, OF COURSE, BE FRESH BREAD.
THE NUBIANS HAVE A RECIPE SO
ANCIENT, IT PRE-DATES THE
INVENTION OF THE OVEN.
IT'S TRADITIONALLY MADE ON A
HOT PLATE.
WHAT'S THE BREAD MADE FROM?

Bassem says THE BREAD IS MADE FROM CORN AND YEAST, SOME SALT AND SOME LADIES FINGERS. DRIED LADIES FINGERS.

Dave says SO DRIED OKRA.
IT'S INTERESTING BECAUSE IT'S
THE FIRST BREAD I'VE HAD IN
EGYPT THAT'S A CORN BREAD.
COULD I TASTE A LITTLE BIT,
DO YOU THINK?

Bassem says YEAH, YEAH.

Dave says MMM, THAT'S GOOD,
ISN'T IT?

Bassem says MM-HMM. YOU LIKE IT, REALLY?

Dave says THAT'S REALLY GOOD.

Bassem says IT'S SOFT.
YOU CAN EAT IT WITHOUT ANYTHING,
YEAH?

Dave says YEAH, I COULD SIT
THERE AND EAT THE LOT.
[laughter]

The woman making the bread says IT'S GOOD?

Dave says IT'S
REALLY
GOOD!

The woman says THANK YOU.

Dave says BREAKFAST IS JUST
THE START OF THE FEAST, BUT
WHAT A WAY TO BEGIN.
THE FRESH LIVER IS SERVED WITH
SIDE DISHES OF FUUL, FALAFEL
AND PICKLES.

Moushira says COME IN, YEAH.
[general chatter]

The family gather to eat.

Dave says HELLO.
COME ON, CHEF.
IT'S BEAUTIFUL.
THIS IS THE BEST FOOD I'VE HAD
IN EGYPT.
I'M SORRY, THE REST OF EGYPT.
THE LIVER, WITH THE REST OF THE
OFFAL, IT'S SO SOFT, SPICY AND
FLAVOURSOME.
THE BREAD'S GREAT, AND YOU GET
CHIPS WITH YOUR BREAKFAST.
YOU KNOW, IT'S SO WRONG BUT
IT'S SO RIGHT.
DO YOU THINK I'M TOO OLD TO BE
ADOPTED?
[laughter]
BETWEEN COURSES, THERE'S TIME
FOR A SMOKE.
[laughter]

Women do a cleanse with a smoking tray.

Dave says THEY DO THIS SEVEN TIMES.
IT TAKES AWAY THE EVIL EYE.

The woman places it on the floor and under Bassem’s tunic.

Everybody laughs.
Dave says NUBIAN CHIMNEY.
[laughter]
AFTER AN HOUR OF FAIRLY
VIGOROUS BOILING AND BUBBLING,
THE MUTTON IS DONE.
FATTA ISN'T JUST MUTTON THOUGH.
IT'S A CLEVER DISH ASSEMBLED
FROM A NUMBER OF ELEMENTS, EACH
WITH A DISTINCTIVE FLAVOUR.

Moushira says WE ARE HONOURED TO HAVE YOU ALL HERE. EVERY YEAR MAY YOU BE HEALTHY AND BLESSED.

Bassem says PLEASE HELP YOURSELVES.

Dave says AH, THIS LOOKS GOOD.
THIS IS A PROPER FEAST, ISN'T
IT?

Bassem says YEAH.

Dave says MMM.
THAT'S
SO
GOOD.
IT'S A WONDERFUL DISH.
THE THING IS THE MUTTON IS
JUST FALLING OFF THE BONES.
IT'S REALLY, REALLY TENDER,
BUT I LOVE THE TEXTURES OF IT.
YOU KNOW, YOU'VE GOT THE BREAD
WHICH WAS CRISPY, SOAKED IN
THAT WONDERFUL STOCK, REMEMBER
THE SPICES IN THE STOCK, THEN
YOU GET THE RICE, HALF OF IT'S
FRIED, HALF ISN'T.
THEN YOU GOT THE TOMATO SAUCE
WITH LOADS AND LOADS OF ONIONS
AND GARLIC, AND THEN, OF
COURSE, YOU'VE GOT THE MUTTON
ON THE TOP.
THE LOVELY THING IS, YOU SHARE
IT TOGETHER.
IT'S A FESTIVAL DISH.
OF COURSE, AT ANY PARTY, AFTER
THE FEASTING, THERE'S
ENTERTAINMENT!
(music plays)
AND ON OCCASIONS LIKE THIS, THE
VILLAGE BAND GOES FROM HOUSE TO
HOUSE.

A band plays drums and tambourines.

Dave says TIME TO BUST OUT MY
'STRICTLY' MOVES.

Dave dances to the music.

He says IT'S BEEN AN AMAZING WEEK, BUT
I'LL JUST HAVE TO SIT THIS ONE
OUT.
(music plays)
I WENT LOOKING FOR THE PURE
EGYPTIAN FOOD, AND IN A WAY I
FOUND THAT IN CAIRO, BUT AS I
GOT SOUTH, IT GOT BETTER AND
BETTER.
I FEEL I'VE DISCOVERED A
CUISINE THAT SHOULD BE
APPRECIATED MORE THAN IT IS.
NOT ONLY DO EGYPTIANS KNOW THE
SECRET OF THE PERFECT FALAFEL,
IT TURNS OUT THEY'RE
RESPONSIBLE FOR INVENTING OUR
DAILY BREAD.
AND THE NUBIANS CAN TAKE CREDIT
FOR A DISH THAT'S A FAVOURITE
ACROSS THE ARAB WORLD.
IN EGYPT, THE INGREDIENTS ARE
KING -- OR RATHER PHARAOH.
THE FOOD MAY BE SIMPLE, BUT
IT'S GOOD ENOUGH TO HAVE KEPT
THE PEOPLE GOING FOR THOUSANDS
OF YEARS.
(music plays)
IT'S A CULTURE, A RELIGION OF
BEAUTY AND GRACE.
THAT'S WHAT I FOUND BY THE
BUCKETFUL IN EGYPT.
I'VE ALSO LEARNT THAT I CAN
DANCE AND ENJOY MYSELF WITHOUT
BEING FULL OF BEER.
(music plays)
I HAVE TO GO NOW.
UNFORTUNATELY, I'VE GOT A PLANE
TO CATCH, AND I'M A FIVE-HOUR
DRIVE FROM THE AIRPORT.
(music plays)
CRIKEY, WHEN I ORDERED A TAXI,
THIS WASN'T QUITE WHAT I HAD
IN MIND.

He gets on a camel and heads off.

(music plays)

He says BYE-BYE!
(music plays)
SHUKRAN.
(music plays)

The narrator says NEXT TIME,
SCOTTISH CHEF, TONY SINGH,
GOES IN SEARCH OF THE
AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS OF INDIA.

Tony says I'M STARVING AND
I WANT TO FIND OUT WHAT WE HAVE
FOR BREAKFAST IN PUNJAB.

The narrator says AND UNCOVERS HIS
FAMILY ROOTS ON A JOURNEY THAT
NEVER STOPS SURPRISING.

Tony says I'VE BEEN ASKED
IN FOR TEA.

Music plays as the end credits roll.

Production manager, Amanda Brown.

Executive producer, Gill Tierney.

Director, James Holmes.

Series producers, Helen Simpson and Katy Fryer.

BBC Features Production. Bristol.

Copyright. BBC 2015.

Distributed by DCD Right.